CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- Center lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- Side lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- Back insert – 1 QTY
- Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
- Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
- Side lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- Upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- Center lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- Front insert – 2 QTY
- FACING – 2 QTY
- Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, upper COLLAR, back neckline FACING, upper FRONT PANEL, lower FRONT PANEL.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, upper COLLAR, back neckline FACING, upper FRONT PANEL, and lower FRONT PANEL.
- Mark darts on the upper FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press darts on the BACK PANEL towards the center back, and on the FRONT PANEL towards the center front.
- Fold the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch around. Trim seams and press the COLLAR.
- Stitch the center lower FRONT PANEL to the side lower FRONT PANEL. Press the seam open. Stitch the front insert to the lower FRONT PANEL. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm. Stitch the upper FRONT PANEL to the upper edge of the front insert. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm.
- Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which marks the end of the COLLAR attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching is placed at 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, trim seams.
- Stitch and press open the center seam of the upper BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center seam of the center lower BACK PANEL. Stitch the center lower BACK PANEL to the side lower BACK PANEL. Press the seam open. Stitch the back insert to the lower BACK PANEL. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm. Stitch the upper BACK PANEL to the upper edge of the back insert, press the seam open and topstitch at 0.2 cm.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and the FACING. Attach the lower COLLAR to the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR to the neckline edge of the back FACING.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the hem of the SLEEVE. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Attach shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the cut LINING pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
- Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the FACING and the back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, make a buttonhole, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on a button.
