CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL YOKE – QTY 2
- BACK NECK FACING – QTY 1
- FRONT FACING – QTY 2
- Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Strap – QTY 2
- Pocket – QTY 2
- Flap – QTY 4
- Belt – QTY 2
- From LINING fabric:
- BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL YOKE – QTY 2
- Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
- Pocket – QTY 2
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, back neck facing, front panel, flap, upper collar, front panel yoke.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front facing, back neck facing, front panel, flap, upper collar, and front panel yoke.
- Mark the darts on the front panel and back panel. Stitch the darts on the back panel and front panel. Trim the dart depth on the front panel and back panel. Press the darts open on the front panel and back panel.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the flap corners and turn out. Fold the collar pieces and stitch around. Trim the seams at the corners, straighten, turn out and press the collar.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold the pocket pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edges of the pocket. Stitch the edges of the pocket pieces along the contour, leaving an opening in the side seam about 5 cm long for turning out the pocket. Trim the seam allowances of the rounded pocket corners and turn out the pocket. Press the pocket. Topstitch the pocket according to the marking. Mark the flap placement on the front panel. Place the flap on the marked position and attach. Turn the flap down and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Fold the front panels right sides together and align the edges, measuring the length of the front edges. Attach the ZIPPER to the edge of the front opening. Fold the edges of the front opening in the ZIPPER area and press.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neck facing and front facing. Stitch around the neckline of the back panel and front panel. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten the seams and press.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front panel, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and neckline of the front panel and back panel. The stitching is done from the front panel side. Attach the lower edges of the front facings to the front panel strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front opening. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the seams. Topstitch along the front opening at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Fold the strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitch on three sides, leaving the side edge of the belt free. Turn out and press the strap. Attach the strap to the elbow edge of the SLEEVE.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the bottom of the SLEEVE. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Secure the strap on the front seam of the SLEEVE with a bar tack equal to the width of the strap.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
- Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the front facings and back neck facing.
- Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch on three sides, leaving an opening of 5-7 cm (opening in the long edge of the belt). Turn out and press the belt. Topstitch along the contour of the belt at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
