Jacket with a Decorative Closure

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. BACK PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. BACK PANEL Center – 2 QTY
• 4. FRONT PANEL Yoke – 2 QTY
• 5. FRONT PANEL Center – 2 QTY
• 6. Front Facing – 2 QTY
• 7. Undercollar – 1 QTY
• 8. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 9. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 10. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 11. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• 12. Flap – 4 QTY
• 13. Placket – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. BACK PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. BACK PANEL Center – 2 QTY
• 4. FRONT PANEL Yoke – 2 QTY
• 5. FRONT PANEL Center – 2 QTY
• 6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Front Facing, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, FRONT PANEL Center, FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL, FRONT PANEL Yoke, Upper COLLAR, Flap.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the Front Facing, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, FRONT PANEL Center, FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL, FRONT PANEL Yoke, Upper COLLAR, and Flap.
2. Mark darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center.
3. Stitch the FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL to the FRONT PANEL Center. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE open. Stitch the yoke to the FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE open.
4. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the flap corner SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn right side out. Fold the upper COLLAR with the undercollar and stitch around. Trim the corner SEAM ALLOWANCES, shape, turn right side out, and press the COLLAR.
5. Cut the FACINGS for the side welt pocket. Mark the pocket placement. Reinforce the pocket opening with GRAIN LINE tape. Fold the pocket FACINGS in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket FACING parallel to the FACING fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket FACINGS. Stitch the pocket LINING to the flap. Stitch the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the accuracy of FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the FACINGS so that the pressed folds of the FACINGS meet edge to edge. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch to the upper pocket FACING. Stitch the lower pocket LINING into the seam of the lower FACING attachment, trim and stitch the pocket LINING.
6. Place the Front Facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which indicates the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the Front Facings to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch the edge FACING SEAM ALLOWANCE: in the fastener area – to the Front Facing, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL edge. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges right side out, straighten the seams.
7. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center BACK PANEL seam.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
9. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the BACK PANEL neckline FACING and Front Facing. Insert the undercollar into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the BACK PANEL FACING.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
11. Insert the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
12. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
13. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the Front Facings and the BACK PANEL neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
14. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
15. On the FRONT PANELS, overcast buttonholes.
16. Fold the placket pieces right sides together and stitch around, leaving a 7 cm opening in the short lower side of the placket. Trim the placket corner SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn right side out. Press the placket and topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge. Mark and sew on buttons.