Cropped Mandarin Collar Shaped Hem Jacket with Rouleau Loops
A cropped, fitted women's jacket with a stand collar, princess seams, an edge-to-edge front closed with five buttons and rouleau loops, and fronts with rounded lower corners. Long set-in sleeves widen towards the wrist. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- Over dresses and high-waisted skirts or trousers, since the jacket ends at the waist.
- In spring and autumn, or indoors for events and the office.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Cropped at the waist; the fronts curve away to rounded corners.
Collar: Stand collar of an upper and under collar, set between the jacket and the facing.
Closure: Edge-to-edge: five rouleau loops, made from a 3 cm strip of self fabric, are caught in the right front edge; five buttons on the left front.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts pressed towards the centre.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves, wider at the hem, finished with an interfaced hem facing; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm on the facing; hem allowance 2.5 cm.
Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, rouleau loops set into a faced edge, a stand collar and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, centre fronts, upper collar, sleeve hem facings)
- 5 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve Hem Facing – 2 pieces
- Strip for the button loops, 3 cm wide (cut to measurement) – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Center Front, upper Collar, Sleeve Hem Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the center front facings, back neckline facing, center fronts, upper collar and sleeve hem facings.
- Mark the darts on the back. Stitch the darts and press them towards the center.
- Place the upper collar on the under collar, right sides together, and stitch around the outer edges. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the collar right side out. Straighten the seams and press the collar.
- Stitch the princess seams on the front (center front to side front). Press the princess seams open.
- Cut a 3 cm wide strip for the button loops from the main fabric. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold, closing one end. Turn the strip right side out and press. Cut the strip into loops and fold each loop in half. Baste the loops to the right front at the marks.
- Place the center front facing on the front, right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edge, with the front on top. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the rounded upper and lower corners of the front edge. Understitch the front edge seam allowances to the facing in the closure area, 0.2 cm from the seam, stopping 3 cm from the neckline edge and from the lower corner. Turn the fronts right side out and straighten the seams. Remove the basting threads.
- Stitch the center back seam and press it open. Stitch the princess seams on the back (center back to side back) and press them open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and center front facings and press them open. Stitch the under collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back neckline facing and center front facings.
- Stitch the sleeve seam and press it open. Stitch the seam of the sleeve hem facing and press it open. Place the sleeve hem facing on the sleeve, right sides together, matching the lower edges and seams. Stitch along the sleeve hem. Understitch the seam allowances to the facing, 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facing to the inside of the sleeve and press the hem.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Sew the seams of the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in one lining sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the center front facings and back neckline facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and to the sleeve hem facings. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the lining sleeve. Stitch the opening closed.
- Mark and sew the buttons on the left front.
