Cropped Mandarin Collar Shaped Hem Jacket with Rouleau Loops

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
3. FACING – 2 QTY
4. COLLAR – 2 QTY
5. BACK PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
6. FRONT PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
7. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
8. BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
9. SLEEVE HEM FACING – 2 QTY
• From lining fabric:
1. BACK PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
5. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: facing, back neck facing, front panel center, upper collar, sleeve hem facing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the facing, back neck facing, front panel center, upper collar, and sleeve hem facing.
2. Mark darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press darts on the BACK PANEL towards the center.
3. Place the upper COLLAR on the under COLLAR, right sides together, and stitch. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners and turn the COLLAR right side out. Straighten seams and press the COLLAR.
4. Stitch the princess seam on the FRONT PANEL. Press open the princess seam on the FRONT PANEL.
5. Cut a 3 cm wide TRIM STRIP for buttonholes from the main fabric. Fold the strip lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold, stitching one end. Turn the strip right side out and press. Cut buttonholes from the strip and fold them. Baste buttonholes according to markings to the right FRONT PANEL.
6. Place the facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the rounded upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the edge facing onto the facing in the fastener area. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam (stopping 3 cm from the neckline edge and lower corner). Turn the edges right side out, straighten the seams. Remove temporary basting threads.
7. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neck facing and facing. Stitch the under COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the back neck facing and facing.
9. Stitch and press open the SLEEVE seam. Stitch and press open the side seam of the sleeve hem facing. Place the facing and SLEEVE right sides together, aligning the lower edges and seams. Stitch the SLEEVE hem. Topstitch the facing SEAM ALLOWANCE onto the facing, 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facing inside the SLEEVE and press the hem.
10. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, matching NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads.
11. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the SLEEVE seam.
12. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the facings and back neck facing. Press open the COLLAR setting SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them close to the seams.
13. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and the sleeve hem facing. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
14. Mark and sew buttons on the left FRONT PANEL.