Panelled Zipper Front Belted Jacket
A fitted, hip-length women's denim jacket with a full-length centre front zip, front and back yokes, princess seams, zipped pockets in shaped side plackets and a separate belt worn through belt loops. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over shirts, T-shirts and fine knitwear.
- With jeans, trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the waist with princess seams on the front and back, ending in a band at the hip.
Collar: Pointed collar cut as an upper and under collar.
Front: Yokes topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam, with stitched pleats on the centre front below them. Topstitched plackets run along the zip, and the front edges are topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge.
Closure: Centre front zip from neckline to hem.
Pockets: Zipped pockets set into shaped plackets topstitched onto the side fronts, 0.2 cm from the edge.
Back: Yokes, princess seams and a centre back seam; stitched pleats below the yokes.
Waist: A topstitched band at the lower edge, cut in front and back parts and faced. A separate belt, topstitched 0.5 cm around the edge, passes through belt loops.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with cuffs; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Zipped pocket openings in applied plackets, a faced zip front, yokes with pleats, two-piece sleeves with cuffs and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, centre fronts, upper collar, plackets)
- Zip for the centre front
- Zips for the two pocket openings
- 2 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 4. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 5. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 6. Lower Collar – 2 pieces (under collar and upper collar)
- 7. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 8. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 9. Back Belt – 1 piece
- 10. Front Belt – 2 pieces
- 11. Waistband – 2 pieces
- 12. Belt-Loop – 1 piece
- 13. Placket – 2 pieces
- 14. Topstitched Placket – 2 pieces
- 15. Shaped Placket – 2 pieces
- 16. Cuff – 2 pieces
- 17. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 18. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 19. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- 20. Front Belt Facing – 2 pieces
- 21. Back Belt Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- 1. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 4. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 5. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 6. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 8. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Center Front, upper collar, Placket.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Center Fronts, upper collar and Plackets.
- Mark and stitch the pleats on the Center Front. Mark and stitch the pleats on the Center Back.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Ease out the seams and trim the seam allowances at the corners. Turn the collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Press the seam towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Press the seam towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seam on the front (Center Front to Side Front) and press it open.
- Press under the seam allowances around the outer edge of the Shaped Placket. Mark its position on the front and topstitch it on 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Fuse interfacing to the pocket opening area on the placket. Mark the pocket opening. Cut the opening, ending with diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the seam allowances through the opening to the wrong side and press the opening. Place the pocket zip under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible. Edgestitch around the opening 0.2 cm from the edge. Mark the pocket placement on the front. Press under the pocket seam allowances along the outer edge and topstitch the pocket to the front along the marking, 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the Front Belt (lower band) to the lower edge of the front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Placket to the front edge. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seam on the back (Center Back to Side Back) and press it open.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open.
- Stitch the Back Belt (lower band) to the lower edge of the back. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the fronts right sides together and match the edges and the pockets, checking that both front edges are the same length. Stitch the zip to the front edges. Fold under the front edges along the zip and press.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, with the front on top. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the lower edge of the band. Trim the seam allowances at the lower corners. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the under collar to the jacket neckline and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the side seams of the Front Belt Facings and Back Belt Facing and press them open. Stitch the front end of each band facing to the Center Front Facing. Press the seam. Place the band and the band facings right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Turn the band facings to the wrong side and press the lower edge.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch across the ends. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out and press the cuff. Stitch the outer layer of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Fold the Belt-Loop strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, match the edges and stitch 1 cm from the edges. Turn right side out, place the seam on the fold or roll it 0.1–0.2 cm to the inside, and press. Cut the strip into belt loops of the required length. Overlock the upper and lower ends. Mark the belt loop positions and stitch the loops on.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the free edge of the band facings and to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Place the two Waistband pieces (the separate belt) right sides together and stitch around all four sides, leaving an opening in the lower edge. Turn right side out and press the belt. Topstitch all around 0.5 cm from the edge. Thread the belt through the belt loops.
