Paneled Fly Front Skirt with Flapped Pockets
A knee-length women's denim skirt with a fly-front zip, a curved panel on each side of the front and patch pockets with buttoned flaps. The back has a shaped yoke, a second shaped insert and stitched pleats.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear in spring, summer and autumn, with shirts, T-shirts and knitwear.
- With tights and boots in cooler weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight to slightly flared, knee length.
Front: A centre panel and a curved side insert on each half; the insert seams are pressed towards the centre and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam. Centre front seam pressed open and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Closure: Fly-front zip with cut-on facings and a separate fly shield; one button and buttonhole on the waistband.
Pockets: Patch pockets on the side inserts, each with a flap closed by a button. Pocket and flap edges are bound with a self-fabric bias strip; the flap is topstitched 0.5 cm from the fold.
Back: Yoke, shaped insert and lower panel, each seam topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; stitched pleats on the lower panel; topstitched centre back seam.
Waist: Straight interfaced waistband folded in half lengthwise, with belt loops.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem overlocked, turned up 2 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A fly-front zip, bias-bound patch pockets and flaps, several panel seams with topstitching and a waistband with belt loops.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (waistband, fly shield)
- Zip for the fly front
- 3 buttons (waistband and pocket flaps)
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 2. Back Inset – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- 4. Center Front Skirt – 2 pieces
- 5. Front Skirt Inset – 2 pieces
- 6. Button Catch – 1 piece
- 7. Pocket – 2 pieces
- 8. Flap – 2 pieces
- 9. Waistband – 1 piece
- 10. Belt-Loop – 1 piece
- 11. Bias strip for binding the pockets and flaps – cut at 45°, about 6 cm wide
- From fusible interfacing: Waistband, Button Catch.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Waistband and the Button Catch.
- Mark and stitch the pleats on the Back Skirt.
- Stitch the Center Front Skirt to the Front Skirt Inset. Overlock the seam and press it towards the centre panel. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the Back Inset. Overlock the seam and press it towards the inset. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Back Inset to the Back Skirt. Overlock the seam and press it towards the Back Skirt. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the centre back seam. Overlock it and press it to the right. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Cut a bias strip from main fabric at 45°, about 6 cm wide, for binding the pockets and flaps. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and press. Stitch it to the outer edges of the Pocket and Flap so that the folded binding lies 0.75 cm onto the piece. Trim the seam allowances to 0.5 cm. Turn the binding to the wrong side, press and topstitch it to the pocket and flap. Overlock the upper edge of the pocket and of the flap. Turn the upper edge of the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Mark the pocket and flap placement on the front skirt. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch it on. Place the flap on the marking and stitch it on. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the fold.
- Overlock the centre front edges together with the fly extensions. Stitch the centre front seam up to the zip opening. Press the seam open. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Press the cut-on fly facings to the wrong side. Stitch the zip close to the edge under the folded fly allowance of the left side. Stitch the free zip tape to the cut-on facing of the right side. Fold the Button Catch (fly shield) in half lengthwise and stitch across the short lower end. Stitch the cut-on fly facing of the left side to the Button Catch. Topstitch the right edge of the opening, catching the facing.
- Fold the Belt-Loop strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, match the edges and stitch 0.5–0.7 cm from the edges. Turn right side out, place the seam on the fold or roll it 0.1–0.2 cm to the inside, and press.
- Press the Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and overlock its lower inner edge. Cut the belt loop strip into loops of the required length and stitch them to the waistband at the markings.
- Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt. Stitch across the ends of the waistband, trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Stitch the overlocked lower edge of the waistband in the ditch of the waistband seam and press the finished waistband.
- Overlock the lower edge of the skirt, turn up the hem and topstitch.
- Work a buttonhole on the right end of the waistband and sew a button on the left end. Mark and work the buttonholes on the flaps; sew the buttons on the patch pockets at the markings.
