Cropped Double-Breasted Puffed Sleeve Jacket
A short women's jacket with a double-breasted four-button front, notched collar and lapels, and short puffed sleeves finished with cuffs. Decorative flaps sit on the lower fronts.
When To Wear
- In late spring and summer over dresses and tops.
- With high-waisted trousers or skirts, which suit the short length.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts on the fronts and back.
Length: Short, ending just below the waist.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the upper collar is set into the facing neckline and the under collar into the jacket neckline.
Front: Double-breasted, four buttons in two pairs, buttonholes on the right front. Front edges, collar and hem are topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with fullness at the cap and at the lower edge, finished with a folded cuff.
Pockets: Flaps on the lower fronts, stitched on and topstitched; there are no pocket bags.
Back: Centre back seam and vertical darts.
Finishing: Seams overlocked. At the side seams the front is enclosed in the back hem allowance.
Lining: The fronts only are lined; the lining is attached to the facings and closes the lower front edge.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar with lapels set between jacket and facing, a front edge seam basted to change side at the lapel break, partial lining, buttonholes and puffed sleeves with cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (fronts)
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, facings, back neck facing, flaps, upper collar, cuffs)
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Front, Flap, Upper Collar, Cuff.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Flaps, Fronts, Upper Collar and Cuffs.
- Mark the darts on the Front and Back. Stitch the darts. Trim away the excess fabric inside the darts on the front and back. Press the front darts open. Overlock the back darts and press them towards the centre back.
- Place two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Overlock the open edge of the flap. Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Mark the flap placement. Stitch the flap to the Front, turn it down and topstitch.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch with the Front on top, from the bottom up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Trim the seam allowances at the upper corners. Remove the pins. Turn the front edge right side out and baste along it, rolling the seam slightly: below the lapels, towards the facing; along the lapels, towards the front.
- Stitch the centre back seam, overlock it and press it to one side.
- Mark and stitch the dart on each lining Front. Overlock the shoulder edge of the lining. Press the darts. Mark the jacket hem on the Back and overlock it. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side on the fronts and back. Stitch the lining to the free inner edge of the Center Front Facing, then stitch the lining to the lower edge of the Front so that it faces the front hem.
- Stitch the side seams with the back hem allowance folded to the right side of the Back, so that the front is enclosed in the back hem allowance. Overlock the side seams, turn the back hem allowance to the wrong side of the Back and press.
- Overlock the shoulder seams of the jacket, stitch them and press them open. Join the Center Front Facings to the Back Neckline Facing at the shoulders. Press the seams open. Stitch the Upper Collar to the neckline of the facings and the Lower Collar to the neckline of the fronts and back. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams. Tack the shoulder seam allowance of the lining to the shoulder seam allowance of the jacket.
- Fold the pleats along the sleeve cap and along the lower edge of the Sleeve. Press the Cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Unfold the cuff and stitch its short ends together. Press the cuff seam open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise again and press. Overlock the sleeve seam, stitch it and press it open. Stitch the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Overlock the seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Overlock the armhole seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge along the front edges, around the collar and along the jacket hem. Remove the basting.
- Mark and make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
