Belted Collarless Jacket
A women's hip-length jacket with a round collarless neckline, an edge-to-edge front with a separating zipper, front yokes and flap patch pockets. Fully lined, worn with a separate tie belt.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over blouses, knit tops and thin sweaters.
- With trousers or a straight skirt for the office; the belt can be tied at the front or left off.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by darts on the fronts and back.
Length: To the hip.
Neckline: Round and collarless, finished with the front facings and a back neck facing.
Closure: Separating zipper set between the front edges, which meet edge to edge; the front edges are topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Front: A yoke seam across the upper front.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves. A strap is sewn into the elbow seam near the hem and secured on the front sleeve seam with a bar tack.
Pockets: Lined patch pockets with rounded corners on the lower fronts, each with a flap stitched above it and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; a button sits on each flap.
Back: Centre back seam and vertical darts.
Waist: Separate belt, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge all round; it passes across the back at the waist and ties at the front.
Lining: Full lining, including the front yokes and sleeves; the jacket is turned through an opening in the lining sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A separating zipper set between the facing and front, lined patch pockets with flaps, two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front yokes, front facings, back neck facing, flaps)
- Separating zipper
- 2 buttons for the pocket flaps
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Front, Flap, Front Yoke.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Fronts, Flaps and Front Yokes.
- Mark the darts on the Front and Back. Stitch the darts, trim away the excess fabric inside the darts and press them open.
- Place two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out and press.
- Mark the pocket placement. Place a main-fabric Pocket and a lining Pocket right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Stitch around the rest of the pocket, leaving an opening of about 5 cm in the side for turning. Trim the seam allowances at the rounded corners and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket. Topstitch the pocket to the Front along the marking. Mark the flap placement on the Front. Place the flap on the marking and stitch it on. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the fronts right sides together and match the edges, checking that both front edges are the same length. Stitch the separating zipper to the front edges. Fold under the front edges along the zipper and press.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open.
- Place the facings on the jacket, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edges and around the neckline of the fronts and back, with the front on top. Stitch the lower ends of the Center Front Facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side, ease out the seams and press. Topstitch along the front edges 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold each Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, leaving one short end open. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the strap to the elbow-seam edge of the sleeve.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open. Secure the strap on the front sleeve seam with a bar tack as long as the strap is wide.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening of 5–7 cm in the long edge. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch all around the belt 0.5 cm from the edge.
