Curved Empire-Yoke Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Side lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Side upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Center upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 6. Center lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 7. Middle lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 8. Middle upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 9. Facing – 2 QTY
• 10. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 11. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 12. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• 13. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• 14. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Side lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Side upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Center upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 6. Center lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 7. Middle lower FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 8. Middle upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 9. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• 10. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: facing, upper COLLAR, back neckline FACING, center upper FRONT PANEL, center lower FRONT PANEL, middle upper FRONT PANEL, middle lower FRONT PANEL, side upper FRONT PANEL, side lower FRONT PANEL.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the facing, upper COLLAR, back neckline FACING, center upper FRONT PANEL, center lower FRONT PANEL, middle upper FRONT PANEL, middle lower FRONT PANEL, side upper FRONT PANEL, and side lower FRONT PANEL.
2. Place the upper COLLAR on the lower COLLAR, right sides together, and stitch. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn right side out, and press the COLLAR.
3. Stitch the middle lower FRONT PANEL to the center lower FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the side lower FRONT PANEL to the middle lower FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the middle upper FRONT PANEL to the center upper FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the side upper FRONT PANEL to the middle upper FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the upper FRONT PANEL to the lower FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
4. Place the facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the shaped edge. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH indicating the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the edge: in the fastener area – to the facing, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL edge. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges right side out and straighten the seams.
5. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Topstitch along the center and princess seams 0.5 cm from the seam.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
7. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and the facing. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the back FACING.
8. Stitch and press open the front SLEEVE seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Press up the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the elbow SLEEVE seam.
9. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
11. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the facings and the back neckline FACING. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the COLLAR insertion seams and secure them close to the seams.
12. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and the SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.
13. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.