Hidden-Placket Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL Center – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL Side – 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL Side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL Center – 2 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL Middle – 2 QTY
6. Under FACING – 2 QTY
7. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
8. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
9. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
10. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
11. Pocket – 2 QTY
12. Front Pocket Flap – 4 QTY
13. Back Neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL Center – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL Side – 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL Side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL Center – 2 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL Middle – 2 QTY
6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
8. Fly Fastener LINING – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Under FACING, upper COLLAR, back neckline FACING, fly fastener LINING – 1 QTY, FRONT PANEL Center.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the under FACING, upper COLLAR, back neckline FACING, fly fastener LINING, and FRONT PANEL Center.
2. Fold the flaps with the under-flaps right sides together and stitch around. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the flap corners and turn out. Overcast the free edge of the flap. Press the flap. Fold the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch around. Straighten the seams and press the COLLAR.
3. Stitch the FRONT PANEL Middle to the FRONT PANEL Center. Press the seam open. Stitch the FRONT PANEL Side to the FRONT PANEL Middle. Press the seam open.
4. Mark the pocket placement. Stitch the pocket LINING to the upper edge of the pocket and stitch the LINING and pocket edges along the contour, leaving an opening in the side seam about 5 cm long for turning out the pocket. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the rounded pocket corners and turn out the pocket. Press the pocket. Topstitch the pocket according to the marking. Mark the flap placement. Stitch the flap, turn it down, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
5. Mark the fly fastener opening with three lines on the right under FACING's right side: the first line is parallel to the edge and 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines define the length of the fastener. Place the interfaced FACING on the right side of the under FACING, right side down, towards the edge, aligning the FACING's cut edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the fastener opening up to the lines defining the fastener length. Place the second fastener FACING butt-to-butt with the first FACING's stitching line and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the FACING's attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the fastener opening. Turn the FACINGs through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced FACING equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing stitch into the FACING attachment seam. Press the second FACING towards the inner edge of the under FACING and stitch a securing stitch 0.1 cm from the FACING attachment seam. Mark and overcast the buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the under FACING together with the interfaced FACING. Straighten and secure the ends of the fastener from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the FACING edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes; the bar tack length equals the frame width. Press the under FACING.
6. Place the under FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH that defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the under FACINGs to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the edge: in the fastener area – to the under FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL edge. Position the stitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
7. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and the under FACING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the back neckline FACING edge.
9. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press up the SLEEVE hem.
10. Insert the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
11. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
12. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the under FACINGs and the back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them close to the seams.
13. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and the SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed. Topstitch along the fly fastener.
14. Mark and sew the button on the left FRONT PANEL. Tip: The pocket can be finished with a decorative tab.