Three-Quarter Sleeve Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• Pocket – QTY 4
• Center BACK PANEL – QTY 2
• Side BACK PANEL – QTY 2
• COLLAR – QTY 2
• Lapel – QTY 2
• Side FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
• Middle FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
• Center FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
• Front FACING – QTY 2
• Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
• Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
• SLEEVE hem FACING – QTY 2
• BACK PANEL neckline FACING – QTY 1
• From LINING fabric:
• Center BACK PANEL – QTY 2
• Side BACK PANEL – QTY 2
• Side FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
• Middle FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
• Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
• Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, back neckline FACING, COLLAR, lapel, center FRONT PANEL, SLEEVE hem FACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, back neckline FACING, COLLAR, lapel, and center FRONT PANEL.
2. Mark darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center.
3. Attach the lapel to the COLLAR, press the seam open.
4. Stitch and press open the center BACK PANEL seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
5. Mark the pocket placement. Place pocket pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edges of the pocket. Stitch the edges of the pocket pieces along the contour, leaving an opening of about 5 cm in the side seam for turning the pocket right side out. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the rounded pocket corners and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket. Topstitch the pocket according to the markings.
6. Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Press open the side and shoulder seams.
7. Set the lower COLLAR with lapel into the neckline of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Press the setting seam open.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACING. Press open the shoulder seams of the FACING and front FACING. Set the upper COLLAR with lapel into the neckline of the front FACING and FACING. Press the setting seam open.
9. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, lapel, and COLLAR edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards. Attach the lower edges of the front FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge: in the fastening area – onto the front FACING, in the lapel area – onto the FRONT PANEL. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam (stopping 3 cm from the neckline edge and lower corner). Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
10. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE, leaving a slit. Press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE, press the slit. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Finish the slit and SLEEVE hem with a FACING. Press the SLEEVE hem and slit.
11. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
12. On the LINING fabric pattern pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
13. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and back neckline FACING. Secure the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the COLLAR setting seams close to the seams.
14. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and the SLEEVE FACING. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
15. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.