CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- BACK FLOUNCE – QTY 3
- BACK FLOUNCE FACING – QTY 1
- FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- COLLAR – QTY 4
- BACK NECKLINE FACING – QTY 1
- FRONT PANEL CENTER PART – QTY 6
- FRONT FACING – QTY 2
- SLEEVE UPPER PART – QTY 2
- SLEEVE LOWER PART – QTY 2
- FLAP – QTY 4
- POCKET – QTY 2
- From LINING fabric:
- BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- SLEEVE UPPER PART – QTY 2
- SLEEVE LOWER PART – QTY 2
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: back neckline FACING, lower COLLAR, front FACING.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the back neckline FACING, lower COLLAR, and front FACING.
- Mark darts on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Stitch darts, trim bulk, and press open.
- Place FLAP pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim corner SEAM ALLOWANCES of FLAPS and turn right side out. Press the FLAP, overcast the raw edge of the FLAP.
- Mark the pocket placement on the FRONT PANEL. Overcast the pocket edges. Press the top edge of the patch pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. Fold and press the overcast SEAM ALLOWANCES of the pocket to the wrong side. Topstitch the pocket according to the markings. Mark the FLAP placement. Place the FLAP to the markings and attach. Turn the FLAP down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the attachment seam.
- Place the center parts of the FRONT PANELS right sides together, align edges, and attach to the FRONT PANEL, stopping 1.5 cm from the side edges.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the jacket side seams. Stitch shoulder seams, stopping 1.5 cm from the neckline.
- Attach the back FLOUNCES to the center parts of the FRONT PANEL. Press seams open and overcast. Align the upper edges of the FLOUNCES and attach to the lower edge of the BACK PANEL.
- Attach the COLLARS to the center parts of the FRONT PANEL up to the shoulder seam, overcast and press open the attachment seam. Note that the lower COLLAR is placed right side to right side with the center FRONT PANEL, and the two upper COLLARS are placed right side to wrong side. Press open the seams on the lower COLLAR, and press closed and overcast the seams on the two upper COLLARS.
- Stitch the shoulder seams completely. Align the COLLAR insertion edges into the neckline, clip the back neckline near the shoulder seams, and insert the three COLLARS into the back neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACING. Press open the shoulder seams of the FACING and front FACING. Insert the COLLAR into the neckline of the front FACING and FACING. Press open the insertion seam. Stitch and press open the side seams of the front FACING and back FLOUNCE FACING.
- Press the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise and bind the outer edge of the two upper COLLARS and the center parts of the FRONT PANEL.
- Place the front FACING and back FLOUNCE FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge, COLLAR edge, and lower edge of the back FLOUNCE. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge: in the fastener area – to the front FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press up the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
- On the LINING pattern pieces, stitch seams and set SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
- Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
- Attach the LINING to the back FLOUNCE FACING and SLEEVE hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
- Align the two lower right FRONT PANELS and overcast buttonholes, sew buttons on the left FRONT PANEL.
