Stand Collar Coat with Buckled Tabs
A women's below-the-knee coat with princess seams, a stand collar closed by a buckled tab, a zip front under a placket and double buckled straps at the waist. Fully lined, with a zipped chest pocket and patch pockets with slanted welt openings.
When To Wear
- Over dresses, skirts and trousers in spring and autumn: it is cut from raincoat fabric.
- Fastened at the waist straps and collar tab on windy, wet days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the waist by princess seams and darts on the front and back.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar with a tab that fastens through a buckle and eyelets, held by belt loops on the stand.
Closure: Separating zip set between two plackets: the right placket lies on top and covers the zip.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a buckled strap around the hem, attached at the elbow seam.
Pockets: A welt pocket with a zip on the chest; two large lined patch pockets, each with a slanted single-welt opening.
Waist: On each side two straps from the side front seam buckle into tabs on the centre front.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and neckline darts.
Finishing: Darts and seams topstitched 0.5 cm, tabs 0.2 cm from the edge. Shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining of the body and sleeves, tacked to the coat at the waist seams.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A zipped welt pocket, welts in patch pockets, a covered zip between plackets, seven buckled tabs with eyelets and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre fronts, collar stand, welts, plackets) and grain line stay tape
- 1 separating zip for the front
- 2 zips for the pockets
- 7 buckles
- Eyelets
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Zipper Placket – 2 pieces
- 2. Collar Stand – 2 pieces
- 3. Center back – 2 pieces
- 4. Side back – 2 pieces
- 5. Side front – 2 pieces
- 6. Center front – 2 pieces
- 7. Facing – 2 pieces
- 8. Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- 9. Upper Pocket facing – 2 pieces
- 10. Large Upper Pocket lining – 1 piece
- 11. Welt – 4 pieces
- 12. Belt Loop – 1 piece
- 13. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 15. Waistband – 4 pieces
- 16. Collar Tab – 1 piece
- 17. Buckle Tab – 6 pieces
- 18. Sleeve Tab – 2 pieces
- 19. Back Neck facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Small Upper Pocket lining – 1 piece
- 2. Center back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side back – 2 pieces
- 4. Center front – 2 pieces
- 5. Side front – 2 pieces
- 6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 8. Patch Pocket lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: facing, center front, collar stand, welt, placket, grain line stay.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the facing, center front, collar stand, welt, and placket with fusible interfacing.
- Mark and stitch darts on the front. Trim dart depth and press the dart open. Topstitch along the dart at a distance of 0.5 cm. Stitch and press the princess seam allowances on the front. Topstitch along the princess seam at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Mark and stitch darts on the back. Press darts towards the center and topstitch along the dart at a distance of 0.5 cm. Stitch and press the princess seam allowances on the back. Topstitch along the princess seam at a distance of 0.5 cm. Stitch and press the center back seam. Topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the center seam.
- Mark the placement of the upper pocket on the front. Reinforce the pocket opening with a grain line stay. Verify the upper pocket placement on the front. Fold the pocket facings in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facings parallel to the facing fold for attachment. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the pocket facings. Stitch the facings to the front. End the stitching at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, and adjust the facing ends. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper and attach the pocket lining to the facing seam allowances. Stitch the pocket lining and overlock.
- Place the welt pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge of the welt. Press the welt. Mark the placement of the welt on the pocket. On the welt, mark the attachment line to the pocket, measuring the width. Place the welt on the pocket and baste, aligning the marked lines. Place the pocket pieces and pocket lining right sides together to the marked upper and lower lines along with the welt and stitch. Check the correctness of the welt and pocket attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel, and the distance between them equal to the finished welt width). Remove temporary basting threads. Cut open the pocket opening all the way through. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket (careful not to cut the welt). Turn the welt and pocket lining to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Press the sides of the upper and lower pocket according to the pattern with seam allowances turned inwards. Mark the pocket placement on the front and topstitch.
- Insert the collar tab lengthwise in the middle with the right side facing inwards. Stitch the collar tab on three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn the tab right side out and press. Topstitch along the contour of the tab at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. Put the buckle on the tab. Fold the end of the tab to the wrong side, forming a loop, and topstitch. Mark and punch eyelets on the tab. The processing of buckle tabs, sleeve tabs, and waistbands is similar.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise with the right side facing inwards, align the edges, and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold or creating a 0.1-0.2 cm wide piping on the inside, and press. Cut the belt loop according to the markings.
- Attach the waistband with eyelets to the notches on the side front and stitch to the seam allowance. Attach the tabs with buckles to the center front and front sleeve, stitch, turn, and topstitch. Attach the sleeve tab to the elbow edge of the sleeve and stitch to the seam allowance.
