Collared Jacket with Zipper and Drawstring Pocket
A women's hip-length lined jacket with a full-length front zip, princess seams, elastic-gathered side seams and a single drawstring patch pocket. The sleeves are asymmetric: the right one has a gathered band at the upper arm.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn: it is cut from raincoat fabric.
- Over T-shirts and knit tops with jeans or trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Princess seams on the front and back; the side seams are gathered by elastic in a channel from just below the armhole to the hem.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Collar in an upper and an under piece, topstitched and gathered with elastic threaded through it.
Closure: Full-length zip at the centre front.
Sleeves: Set-in. The left sleeve is cut in one piece; the right sleeve is cut in two parts with a topstitched channel and eyelets, and an elastic cord gathers it around the upper arm.
Pockets: One patch pocket with a rounded base on the left front; its faced top edge is gathered by a cord through eyelets.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Eyelets near the side seams on the front and back; elastic secured with a 2 cm bar tack below the armhole. Front edge topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; hem topstitched together with the lining.
Lining: Body and sleeves lined.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip set between the front and the facing, elastic channels with eyelets, a two-part sleeve with a cord channel and a lined body.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, pocket facing)
- Zip for the front
- Eyelets
- Elastic tape
- Cord for the pocket
- Elastic cord for the right sleeve
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Pocket facing – 1 piece
- Upper right sleeve – 1 piece
- Lower left sleeve – 1 piece
- Left sleeve – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Collar, Front Facing, Pocket facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the Front Facing, Collar, and Pocket facing with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Stitch and press open the center seam of the back.
- Mark and punch eyelets on the pocket. Serge the lower edge of the pocket facing. Place the facing and pocket right sides together and stitch the upper edge of the pocket. Turn the pocket facing to the wrong side and press the upper edge of the pocket. Thread the cord through the eyelets. Attach the cord to the side edges of the pocket. Serge the pocket along the contour. Tighten the cord and press the pocket along the contour according to the pattern. Mark the pocket on the left front and topstitch.
- Mark and punch eyelets according to the markings near the side edge on the front and on the back. Stitch the shoulder seams of the jacket. Press open the shoulder and side seams. Stitch the upper Collar into the neckline. Attach the zipper to the edge of the front opening along the notches. Fold the edges of the front opening at the zipper section and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Front Facing and facing. Stitch the lower Collar into the neckline of the Front Facing and the back neckline facing.
- Place the Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch the edges of the front opening. The stitching is done from the front side upwards, leaving an opening for the drawstring casing. Attach the lower edges of the Front Facings to the front strictly along the hemline. Stitch the upper Collar with the lower Collar. Remove pins. Turn out the corners and press. Press open the seam allowances of the Collar insertion seams and secure them close to the seams. Topstitch along the Collar and thread elastic trim strip.
- Stitch and press open the side seams.
- Mark and punch eyelets on the lower of the right sleeve. Topstitch along the marking for the cord. Attach the upper of the sleeve to the lower of the sleeve. Thread elastic cord through the eyelets and attach the cord to the sleeve edges. Stitch and press open the lower edge of the right and left sleeve. Press up the hem of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes.
- On the cut lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves. Press the lining seam allowances.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the Front Facings and facing.
- Mark and press the hem of the jacket. Stitch the lining to the hem of the sleeve. Pin the side seams of the jacket and lining. Stitch on both sides at a distance of 1 cm from the side seam. Thread elastic trim strip and secure the trim strip with a horizontal bar tack 2 cm just below the armhole. Fold and topstitch the hem of the jacket together with the lining. Topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the front opening.
