Fitted Notched Lapel Denim Blazer
A women's fitted hip-length jacket in denim with a notched collar, a single-breasted four-button front, a welt chest pocket and patch pockets with welt openings. The fronts are lined, the back is not.
When To Wear
- With jeans, chinos or skirts for everyday wear in spring and autumn.
- Over shirts and T-shirts as a casual jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts and side front panels on the front and by darts and princess seams on the back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, cut as an upper and an under collar.
Closure: Single-breasted, 4 buttons with buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with a vent at the hem.
Pockets: A welt chest pocket with a topstitched welt; two patch pockets with pointed bases, each with a welt opening, bar-tacked at the corners.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Topstitching 0.2 cm from the front darts, 0.5 cm from the back seams, front edges, collar edge and hem; overlocked seams.
Lining: Fronts only, with a lining dart; the back hem is folded over the front at the side seams.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar with facings, welt pockets cut into patch pockets, a sleeve vent and a partly lined body.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, welts, centre fronts, back neck facing)
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back - 2 pieces
- 2. Side back – 2 pieces
- 3. Lower collar – 1 piece
- 4. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 5. Side front – 2 pieces
- 6. Center front – 2 pieces
- 7. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 8. Upper welt pocket flap – 1 piece
- 9. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
- 10. Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
- 11. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 12. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, welt pocket flap, center front, back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, welt pocket flap, center front, and back neckline facing.
- Mark darts on the front and back. Stitch and press back darts towards the center. Stitch the front dart and trim the dart depth. Cut open the pocket opening. Stitch the side front to the center front and press the seam open. Stitch the pocket opening and press. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the darts.
- Fold the upper welt pocket flap right sides together lengthwise in the middle and press. Stitch the corners of the welt pocket flap, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the welt pocket flap right side out. Press the finished welt pocket flap. Topstitch along the contour of the welt pocket flap 0.2 cm from the edge. Mark the position of the chest pocket. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the front, turn it upwards, and topstitch the side edges of the welt pocket flap.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch. Trim excess fabric at the corners, straighten the seams, and press the collar.
- Fold the welt pocket flap for the lower pocket lengthwise right side up in the middle and press. Mark the position of the welt pocket flap on the pocket. Cut the front facing from the main fabric. On the welt pocket flap, mark the stitching line to the pocket, measuring the width. Place the welt pocket flap on the pocket and align the marked lines. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the pocket. Place the front facing on the right side of the pocket to the marked upper line and stitch. Check the correctness of stitching the welt pocket flap and front facing from the wrong side (the stitches should be parallel and the distance between them equal to the finished width of the welt pocket flap). Cut open the pocket opening. Make slanted cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Through the opening, turn the welt pocket flap and pocket front facing inside out, straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Overlock the pocket front facing and secure the pocket opening. Overlock the outer contour of the patch pocket. Press the upper edge of the patch pocket and topstitch 0.5 cm from the upper edge. Press the sides of the pocket according to the pattern. Mark the position of the pocket on the front and topstitch, reinforcing at the pocket corners.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the front side upwards to the notch, which defines the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams of the upper front corners. Remove pins. Understitch the front edge facing seam allowance: in the button placket area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front.
- Stitch, overlock, and press the center back seam. Stitch, overlock, and press the back princess seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seams.
- Mark and stitch the dart on the front lining. Overlock the shoulder edge of the front lining. Press the darts. Mark and overlock the bottom of the jacket on the back. Press the bottom of the garment to the wrong side of the front and back. Stitch the lining to the outer edge of the front facing and stitch the lower edge of the front with the lining.
- Stitch the side edges, folding the hem allowance of the back to the right side of the back, so that the front is enclosed in the hem allowance of the back. Overlock the side edges, turn the hem allowance of the back to the wrong side of the back and press.
- Overlock, stitch, and press open the jacket shoulder seams. Stitch the shoulder edges of the front facing and facing. Press the seams open and attach the upper collar to the facing neckline, and the lower collar to the front and back neckline. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams. Secure the shoulder seam allowance of the lining to the jacket shoulder seam.
- Overlock the sleeve edge. Overlock and press the lower sleeve edge to the wrong side. Stitch the sleeve seam up to the notch for the slit. Fold the hem allowance to the right side of the sleeve and stitch the slit corners. Fold the hem allowance to the wrong side of the sleeve and topstitch it.
- Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Overlock the setting seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge of the front, along the collar contour, and the bottom of the jacket. Remove basting threads.
- On the right front, mark and make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
