Color-Block Faux Leather Coat
A knee-length women's coat in faux leather of two colours: a contrast lattice insert frames rounded-corner panels on the front, back and sleeves. Stand collar, separating zip at the centre front, full lining.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over trousers, jeans or a fitted dress.
- With boots and plain knitwear that leave the colour blocking in view.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, slightly flared towards the hem.
Length: About knee length.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, interfaced, with the upper stand joined to the facing.
Front: On each front a contrast insert holds five panels with rounded corners: yoke, middle, lower, upper side and lower side. Each panel seam is topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Closure: Separating zip set into the front edge; the front edges are topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with front and back inserts, topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Back: Centre back seam; the same lattice construction as the front, with yoke, middle, lower, upper side and lower side panels.
Finishing: The contrast inserts may be cut in several parts if the material is too small for one piece.
Lining: Full lining, joined to the facings, stand collar, sleeve hems and coat hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Setting many rounded-corner panels into a lattice insert in faux leather, with even topstitching, plus a zip set between the front and facing and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux garment leather in two colours.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, stand collar, yokes, hem allowances of the sleeves and contrast inserts)
- Separating zip
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 2. Back Middle – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Lower – 2 pieces
- 4. Back Contrast Insert – 2 pieces
- 5. Back Lower Side – 2 pieces
- 6. Back Upper Side – 2 pieces
- 7. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 8. Front Middle – 2 pieces
- 9. Front Lower – 2 pieces
- 10. Front Upper Side – 2 pieces
- 11. Front Lower Side – 2 pieces
- 12. Front Contrast Insert – 2 pieces
- 13. Collar Stand – 2 pieces
- 14. Facing – 2 pieces
- 15. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 16. Back sleeve Insert – 2 pieces
- 17. Front sleeve Insert – 2 pieces
Tip: The front contrast insert and back contrast insert can be cut into additional pieces, if desired, depending on the size of the material used.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the facing, Collar Stand, Back Yoke, Front Yoke, sleeve hem, front contrast insert hem, and back contrast insert hem.
- Place the upper Collar Stand and lower Collar Stand right sides together and stitch along the outer edge.
- Attach the Front Yoke to the front contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Front Yoke attachment.
- Attach the Front Middle to the front contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Front Middle attachment.
- Attach the Front Lower to the front contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Front Lower attachment.
- Attach the Front Upper Side to the front contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Front Upper Side attachment.
- Attach the Front Lower Side to the front contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Front Lower Side attachment.
- Attach the Back Yoke to the back contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Back Yoke attachment.
- Attach the Back Upper Side to the back contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Back Upper Side attachment.
- Attach the Back Middle to the back contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Back Yoke attachment.
- Attach the Back Lower to the back contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Back Lower attachment.
- Attach the Back Lower Side to the back contrast insert. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the Back Lower Side attachment.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Attach the lower Collar Stand to the neckline of the coat.
- Place the front panels right sides together and align the edges, matching the yokes, and measure the length of the front edges. Attach the zipper to the edge of the front opening. Fold the edges of the front opening in the zipper area and press through a pressing cloth.
- Attach the upper Collar Stand to the facing.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, face down. Stitch the ends of the Collar Stand and the front opening. Stitching is done from the front side. Attach the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front opening. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the seams. Stitch a topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Attach the back sleeve insert to the sleeve. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the back sleeve insert attachment.
- Attach the front sleeve insert to the sleeve. Stitch a topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the front sleeve insert attachment.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the cut lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the sleeve seam. Set the sleeves and press the lining.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the upper Collar Stand. Press open the seam allowances of the Collar Stand attachment seams and secure them close to the seams. Attach the sleeve lining hem and the garment hem to the sleeve hem and the coat hem.
