Tweed Jacket with Decorative Waist Tabs
A short, fitted women's jacket with a rounded collar, front and back yokes, princess seams topstitched 0.7 cm from the seam, and buttoned tabs that come out of the back princess seams and fasten on the front at the hem. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over blouses, fine knits and dresses.
- With straight trousers, jeans or a pencil skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Short, ending at the high hip.
Collar: Rounded collar with under and upper collar, the under collar interfaced.
Front: Front yoke; princess seams from the yoke to the hem; facings.
Closure: Single-breasted, buttonholes on the right front; the top button sits at the front end of the collar.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, the elbow seam topstitched 0.7 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Waist: Two lined tabs caught in the back princess seams, wrapping to the front and buttoning on at the hem.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Optional contrast bias piping in the edges of the collar, front, tabs, sleeve hems and jacket hem.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams with topstitching, a two-piece collar set between the jacket and facing, two-piece sleeves, tabs set into seams and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool coating fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre fronts, yokes, back armholes, under collar, hem allowances)
- 6 buttons
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
- Contrast bias tape (optional, for piping)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side back – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 4. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 5. Side front – 2 pieces
- 6. Center front – 2 pieces
- 7. Under collar – 1 piece
- 8. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 9. Waistband – 4 pieces
- 10. Facing – 2 pieces
- 11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Center back – 1 piece
- 2. Side back - 2 pieces
- 3. Side front – 2 pieces
- 4. Center front – 2 pieces
- 6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the facing, center front, front yoke, back yoke, armhole of side back, under collar; hem seam allowances: side back, center back, lower sleeve, upper sleeve.
- Place upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch the under collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out collar corners.
- Stitch the jacket waistband along the outer contour. Trim corners and turn out the waistband. Press the waistband and make a buttonhole.
- Stitch and press open the front darts. Topstitch along the front dart at a distance of 0.7 cm from the stitching line.
- Stitch the back darts, inserting the waistband. Press open the back darts and topstitch along the back dart at a distance of 0.7 cm from the stitching line.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge line. Stitching is performed from the front side up to the notch, which defines the end of the collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front edge corners. Topstitch the front edge facing seam allowance to the facing. The stitching is placed at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch the jacket shoulder and side seams. Press open the jacket shoulder and side seams.
- Insert the under collar into the neckline and stitch the upper collar to the facings.
- Stitch the sleeve elbow seam and press open. Topstitch along the elbow seam at a distance of 0.7 cm from the stitching line.
- Stitch and press open the sleeve front seam. Press the sleeve hem.
- Insert the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the upper collar. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hem of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
