Faux Fur Drawstring Coat
A long, flared women's coat in short-pile faux fur, gathered on drawstrings at the midriff and near the sleeve hems. It has a high collar, an edge-to-edge front fastened with hidden hooks, and a full lining.
When To Wear
- In winter over dresses, skirts or trousers.
- With the drawstrings pulled in to shape the waist, or left loose for a straighter line.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Flared from the bust to the hem; gathered on cords at the midriff and waist.
Length: Ankle length.
Collar: High collar with a separate trim strip on the upper collar; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar joined to the facings.
Front: Bust darts; edge-to-edge front with facings.
Closure: 6 hooks and loops set through the front edges and sewn to the facings on edge tape, hidden on the right side.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a dart, shoulder pads and sleeve heads. A drawstring channel near the hem gathers the lower sleeve; the cord comes out through the elbow seam.
Waist: Drawstring channels of lining fabric stitched to the inside; the cords come out through openings in the side seams.
Back: Gathered on the same drawstrings as the front.
Lining: Full lining, 1 cm shorter than the coat; the coat hem is finished by hand.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Sewing faux fur, drawstring channels on the body and sleeves, setting hooks through the front edge, and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Short-pile faux fur.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (also for the drawstring channels)
- 6 hooks and loops
- Edge tape for the hooks
- Cord for the drawstrings
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Upper collar trim – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front - 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the upper collar trim to the collar.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar with the upper collar. Turn out the collar, straightening the edge from the upper collar.
- Stitch the bust dart on the front.
- Place the drawstring trim strip from the lining fabric on the wrong side of the coat according to the markings, fold back the lower end of the strip. Baste the strip to the coat and topstitch along the markings.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the edge. The stitching is done from the front side upwards to the notch, which defines the end of the collar insertion. The lower edges of the facings are stitched to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Stitch the side seams, leaving openings for the cord.
- Insert the lower collar into the neckline and stitch the upper collar to the facings.
- Stitch the dart on the sleeve. Stitch the front sleeve seam.
- Place the drawstring trim strip from the lining fabric on the wrong side of the coat sleeve according to the markings, fold back the lower end of the strip. Baste the sides of the strip to the coat sleeve and topstitch along the markings.
- Stitch the elbow sleeve seam, leaving an opening for the cord.
- Insert the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Insert the shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the wrong side of the garment, mark the position of the hooks. Pierce holes for hooks and loops with a special tool. Insert hooks (or loops) into the holes, thread 40-50 mm pieces of edge tape through the eyes of the hook (or loop). Sew the hooks (or loops) to the facing by the eyes and secure the ends of the edge tape threaded through the hook.
- On the lining fabric cutting pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves. Overlock the lining seams from the bottom to the waist. Press the lining. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facing and upper collar. Secure the collar insertion seam allowances. Fold under the lining sleeves and stitch to the hem of the coat sleeve, fold down and press the excess lining fabric. Turn the coat through the open bottom. Trim the bottom of the coat lining, fold under and topstitch the hem so that the lining is 1 cm shorter than the coat. Fold under the bottom of the coat and hand stitch.
- Thread the cord inside the drawstring casing. Pull the fabric taut with the ties, distribute the gathers, and pull the ends of the cord.
