Fitted Zippered Jacket with Zippered Pockets
A women's fitted, collarless, fully lined jacket with a centre front zipper, princess seams front and back, zippered welt pockets on the fronts and two-piece sleeves with a zipper in the lower elbow seam.
When To Wear
- Office wear in autumn and spring, with a matching straight skirt or trousers.
- Over a thin top or blouse; the round neckline leaves room for a necklace.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams and front darts.
Length: Hip length.
Neckline: Round, collarless, finished with the front facings and a back neck facing.
Closure: Zipper from hem to neckline, set between the fronts and the front facings.
Pockets: Welt pockets with zippers below the waist on both fronts, the frame topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Two-piece, set-in with eased caps; the elbow seam is left open at the hem for a zipper, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Lining: Full lining, sewn to the facings and slip-stitched to the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Five zippers: zippered welt pockets cut open on the front, zippers in the sleeve seams and the front closure set into the facing seam, plus two-piece sleeves and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight wool or wool-blend suiting or coating with enough body to hold the princess seams and zippered pockets.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
- Front zipper
- 2 zippers for the pockets
- 2 zippers for the sleeves
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front center - 2 pieces
- Front side - 2 pieces
- Back center - 2 pieces
- Back side - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Sleeve upper - 2 pieces
- Sleeve lower - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Interfacing:
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Lining:
- Front - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Sleeve upper - 2 pieces
- Sleeve lower - 2 pieces
- Pocket bag - 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the front princess seams and darts of the front panels.
- Welt pocket with zipper. Place the pocket bags right sides together with the front along the marked pocket opening line and stitch along the marked lines.
- Cut the front lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the front ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the seams! Press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side, enclosing the seam allowances, and baste. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side.
- Insert the zipper into the pocket opening and baste. Topstitch along the edge of the frame at a distance of 0.5 cm, simultaneously attaching the zipper.
- Stitch the pocket bag seam, catching the corners of the seam allowances.
- Sew the back princess seams, side seams, and shoulder seams. When sewing the side seams, do not catch the side edges of the pocket bags.
- Two-piece sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams, leaving the elbow seam unstitched at the bottom of the sleeve for the length of the zipper. Insert the zipper into the sleeve slit from the wrong side and baste. Topstitch along the edge of the slit at a distance of 0.5 cm, simultaneously attaching the zipper. Hem the sleeve.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the upper ends of the front facings. Place the front facings right sides together with the front panels, place the zipper between them with the teeth facing inwards, and stitch the front edges and necklines with the front facings and facing.
- Turn the front facings and facing to the wrong side, and press the edges.
- Stitch the seams on the lining. Stitch the front edges of the lining right sides together to the front facings, starting and ending the seam about 8 cm from the bottom edge.
- Insert the lining into the jacket wrong side to wrong side. Turn under the open edges of the lining and sew them to the hem seam allowances of the jacket and sleeves. Sew the remaining open front edges of the lining to the front facings.
