Three-Button Tailored Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• MAIN FABRIC:
• Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Center BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• BACK neckline FACING - QTY 1
• COLLAR - QTY 2
• Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
• Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
• Front FACING - QTY 2
• Welt pocket flap - QTY 2
• FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• Front FACING - QTY 2
• BACK neckline FACING - QTY 1
• COLLAR - QTY 1
• Welt pocket flap - QTY 2
• LINING:
• Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Center BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
• Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
• Pocket bag - QTY 4

Sewing Instructions

1. Sew the front princess SEAM ALLOWANCES and darts on the FRONT PANELs.
2. Welt pocket with flap. Stitch the side edges of the flap. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES corners at a 45-degree angle. Turn the flap right side out and press. Fold the flap and pocket bags with the FRONT PANELs right sides together (pocket bag on top, flap and pocket bag on bottom), pin along the marked pocket opening line, and stitch along the marked stitching lines, aligning the longitudinal edges of the flap precisely with the pocket opening line. Cut the FRONT PANEL along the line between the stitching, diagonally towards the front ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the seams! Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the flap and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side, enclosing the SEAM ALLOWANCES, and baste. Turn the small triangle at the front end of the opening to the wrong side and topstitch the ends of the flap. Secure the corners with short bartacks from the wrong side. Stitch the pocket bag seam, catching the corners of the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
3. Sew the back princess SEAM ALLOWANCES, side and shoulder seams. When sewing the side seams, do not catch the side edges of the pocket bags.
4. Two-piece SLEEVEs. Sew the SLEEVE seam. Hem the SLEEVE. Press the vent edges. From the wrong side of the SLEEVE, stitch the longitudinal and upper short transverse edges of the integrated vent FACING and vent allowance. Sew small buttons onto the SLEEVE, catching the vent allowance.
5. Set in the SLEEVEs, easing them at the cap. To the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE at the cap area, sew a strip of wadding approximately 4 cm wide.
6. Cleanly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour and, bringing the open edges together, baste it into the neckline.
7. Fold the front FACINGs right sides together with the FRONT PANELs and topstitch along the front edges and lapels up to the COLLAR attachment point. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE near this point. Attach the BACK neckline FACING to the upper ends of the front FACINGs.
8. Place the COLLAR with open edges between the jacket and the front FACINGs with the FACING, the lower COLLAR lying on the jacket. Stitch the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the front FACINGs and the FACING. Stitch the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the curves multiple times. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
9. Turn the front FACINGs and FACING to the wrong side, press the edges. From the inside, sew the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES in the back neckline area. Turn the front FACINGs forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side up to the front edges, sew. Turn the front FACINGs to the wrong side again, sew to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.
10. Stitch the seams on the LINING. Attach the front edges of the LINING right sides together to the front FACINGs, starting and ending the seam approximately 8cm from the bottom edge. Pull the LINING wrong side to wrong side into the jacket. Turn under the open edges of the LINING and sew to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES of the jacket and SLEEVEs. Sew the remaining open front edges of the LINING to the front FACINGs.
11. Make buttonholes along the marked line on the right front edge. Sew on buttons.