Wrap Blouse with Notched Lapels

CUTTER'S MUST

• MAIN FABRIC:
  • FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
  • Underlap - QTY 2
  • BACK PANEL - QTY 1 on fold
  • SLEEVE - QTY 2
  • Blouse Hem FACING - QTY 1 on fold
  • COLLAR - QTY 2 on fold
  • Tie - QTY 4
  • CUFF - QTY 2
• ADDITIONAL:
  • 2 BIAS BINDINGs for SLEEVE slit edges, each 16 cm long and 2 cm wide.
• FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Underlap - QTY 2
  • COLLAR - QTY 1 on fold
  • CUFF - QTY 2

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch darts, sew shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES.
2. Cut SLEEVES along markings. Finish the slit with BIAS BINDING, finishing width - 0.5 cm. At the top of the slit (on the wrong side of the SLEEVE), stitch the binding diagonally.
3. Set in SLEEVES into armholes.
4. Cleanly stitch 2 tie pieces along the longitudinal sides. Turn the open end of the tie inwards. Baste one tie between the markings to the side edge of the left FRONT PANEL, the second to the front edge of the right FRONT PANEL, positioning it on the FRONT PANEL.
5. Cut the TRIM STRIP or ribbon into 2 equal parts. Baste one ribbon to the right side of the front edge of the left FRONT PANEL.
6. Sew SLEEVE SEAM ALLOWANCES and side SEAM ALLOWANCES with a single stitch, catching the tie in the left side SEAM ALLOWANCE.
7. Set in the lower COLLAR into the neckline up to the marking. Attach the upper COLLAR to the underlaps. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, press between shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the COLLAR.
8. Fold the hem FACING along the fold marking with wrong sides together, press the fold line. Attach one (outer) longitudinal side of the FACING to the lower edge of the blouse, the lower sides of the underlaps - to the inner longitudinal side of the FACING.
9. Turn the inner half of the FACING to the right side, fold the underlaps and upper COLLAR with the blouse. Stitch the fronts and outer sides of the COLLAR up to the marking, catching the tie from the left edge.
10. Turn the underlaps and inner half of the FACING to the wrong side, turn out the COLLAR. Turn under the lower edge of the upper COLLAR, stitch the upper COLLAR to the attachment SEAM ALLOWANCE. Sew the upper sides of the underlaps to the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES.
11. Turn under the open edge of the inner half of the hem FACING, pin the FACING to the attachment SEAM ALLOWANCE: From the right side, stitch the FACING along the attachment SEAM ALLOWANCE.
12. At the lower edge of the SLEEVES, lay pleats, overlapping x on o, and baste them.
13. Fold CUFFS in half, cleanly stitch the short sides. Attach the longitudinal side of the CUFF to the right side of the lower edge of the SLEEVE, catching the binding of the front edge of the slit turned to the wrong side. Turn under the inner half of the CUFF and stitch to the attachment SEAM ALLOWANCE.
14. On the CUFFS, make 2 buttonholes, 1 cm from the edge of the front short side.
15. Sew the second ribbon to the right side SEAM ALLOWANCES at the height of the ribbon of the left front edge.
16. Turn the fronts back as lapels to the right side, lightly press.