Fitted Jacket with Sleeve Turnups

Fabric & Materials

MAIN FABRIC: Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY Upper SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY Lower SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY Upper COLLAR - 1 QTY Upper SLEEVE part - 2 QTY Lower SLEEVE part - 2 QTY Pocket bag - 2 QTY Front facing - 2 QTY Lower CUFF - 2 QTY Upper CUFF - 2 QTY TRIM: Upper COLLAR FACING - 1 QTY Upper CUFF FACING - 2 QTY Pocket FACING - 4 QTY INTERFACING: Front facing - 2 QTY Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY Lower CUFF - 2 QTY

CUTTER'S MUST

• MAIN FABRIC:
• Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• Upper SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
• Lower SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
• Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY
• Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY
• Upper COLLAR - 1 QTY
• Upper SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
• Lower SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
• Pocket bag - 2 QTY
• Front facing - 2 QTY
• Lower CUFF - 2 QTY
• Upper CUFF - 2 QTY
• TRIM:
• Upper COLLAR FACING - 1 QTY
• Upper CUFF FACING - 2 QTY
• Pocket FACING - 4 QTY
• INTERFACING:
• Front facing - 2 QTY
• Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY
• Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY
• Lower CUFF - 2 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Sew the front princess seams.
2. Welt pockets. Fold both bias FACINGS of each pocket with the FRONT PANEL, right sides together, pin along the marked pocket opening line and stitch along the marked stitching lines, aligning the longitudinal edges of the FACINGS precisely with the pocket opening line.
3. Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the front ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS!
4. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the FACINGS, enclosing the SEAM ALLOWANCES, through the slit to the wrong side and baste.
5. From the right side, stitch precisely into the FACING attachment seams.
6. Turn the small triangle at the front end of the slit to the wrong side and topstitch onto the FACINGS precisely from the end of one stitching line to the end of the other.
7. Join the folds of the FACINGS with a velvet stitch.
8. From the wrong side of the jacket, attach the pocket bags: the pocket bag made of LINING fabric - to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachment seam, the pocket bag made of main fabric - to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper FACING attachment seam.
9. Press the pocket bags downwards, trim, equalize, and stitch together.
10. Sew the back princess seams, side seams, and shoulder seams. When sewing the side seams, do not catch the side edges of the pocket bags.
11. Two-piece SLEEVES. Sew the SLEEVE seam.
12. Stitch the CUFF FACINGS to the upper CUFF. Stitch the side seam of the CUFFS, FACING the upper CUFF with the lower, turn out and press.
13. Fold the CUFFS right side to the wrong side of the SLEEVE. Stitch the lower edge of the SLEEVE and CUFF. Turn out the CUFF.
14. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the SLEEVE caps. To the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE attachment seam in the SLEEVE cap area, sew a strip of wadding approximately 4 cm wide.
15. Stitch the COLLAR and FACING. Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour and, taking the open edges together, baste into the neckline.
16. Fold the front facings right sides together with the FRONT PANELS and topstitch to the lapels and lapels up to the COLLAR attachment point. NOTCH the SEAM ALLOWANCE near this point.
17. Attach the back neckline FACING to the upper ends of the front facings.
18. Place the COLLAR with open edges between the jacket and the front facings with the FACING, the lower COLLAR lies on the jacket. Attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the front facings and FACING. Set in the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline.
19. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the curves multiple times. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
20. Turn the front facings and FACING to the wrong side, press the edges. From the inside, sew the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES in the back neckline area.
21. Turn the front facings forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side up to the lapels, sew. Turn the front facings back to the wrong side, sew to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES. Hem the jacket. Sew the front facings to the hem.
22. Sew shoulder pads to the SLEEVE attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and to the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES.
23. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast 3 buttonholes. Sew on buttons.