Designer Inspired Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• MAIN FABRIC:
• FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• BACK PANEL - QTY 1 on fold
• Back neckline FACING - QTY 1
• Upper SLEEVE part - QTY 2
• Lower SLEEVE part - QTY 2
• Front FACING - QTY 2
• Upper pocket FLOUNCE - QTY 4
• Lower pocket FLOUNCE - QTY 4
• ADDITIONAL:
• 2 BIAS BINDINGs for pockets, 18 cm long and 3 cm wide each, including SEAM ALLOWANCES;
• FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• Front FACING - QTY 2
• Back neckline FACING - QTY 1
• Upper pocket FLOUNCE - QTY 2
• Lower pocket FLOUNCE - QTY 2
• LINING:
• FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• BACK PANEL - QTY 1 on fold
• Upper SLEEVE part - QTY 2
• Lower SLEEVE part - QTY 2
• Upper pocket bag - QTY 4
• Lower pocket bag - QTY 4

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch all darts. Press dart SEAM ALLOWANCES on FRONT PANELs open, press BACK PANEL dart depths towards side edges.
2. Clean finish upper FLOUNCEs and lower pocket FLOUNCEs along side and bottom edges. On FLOUNCEs, overcast buttonholes for small buttons.
3. On the bottom of the FRONT PANELs, create welt pockets with a FLOUNCE. Fold the FLOUNCE and FACING of each pocket with the FRONT PANEL right sides together and stitch along the markings. Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the FLOUNCE and FACING!
4. Press the FACING attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the FACING, folding over the SEAM ALLOWANCE, through the slit to the wrong side and from the right side of the jacket, stitch precisely into the FACING attachment seam. Press the FLOUNCE downwards.
5. From the wrong side of the jacket, stitch the LINING pocket bag to the FACING attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES, and the main fabric pocket bag to the FLOUNCE attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the slit to the wrong side and topstitch onto the pocket bag precisely from the ends of one stitching line to the ends of the other. Trim and stitch the pocket bags, evening them out.
6. Stitch the small upper FLOUNCEs to the FRONT PANELs along the marked attachment seam lines and press downwards.
7. Stitch the back neckline FACING to the front FACINGs. Fold the front FACINGs and FACING with the jacket right sides together, pin, and clean finish the bottom of the FRONT PANELs, the front edges, and the neckline. Press the edges.
8. Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side and hand stitch. Stitch the front FACINGs to the hem allowance.
9. Two-piece SLEEVEs. Sew each SLEEVE seam. Hem the SLEEVE. Press the vent edges. From the wrong side of the SLEEVE, stitch the longitudinal and upper short edges of the integrated vent FACING and the vent allowance. Stitch small buttons according to markings, catching the vent allowance.
10. Set in the SLEEVEs, easing them at the sleeve caps. To the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE attachment seam in the sleeve cap area, stitch a strip of wadding approximately 4 cm wide. Attach shoulder pads.
11. Stitch the LINING to the jacket. Baste a pleat on the back LINING for ease, press the pleat depth to one side.
12. On the LINING pattern pieces, stitch darts and sew seams. Fold the LINING with the jacket right sides together, pin, and stitch to the inner edges of the front FACINGs and FACING, leaving sections approximately 10 cm long open at the bottom.
13. Fold the LINING with the jacket wrong sides together. Turn up the LINING, pull it slightly upwards for ease, and stitch. Complete the remaining open sections of the LINING seams (at the front FACINGs).
14. Stitch the LINING SLEEVEs to the jacket SLEEVE hem allowances with a pleat for ease - see above.
15. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes for large buttons; stitch large buttons to the left FRONT PANEL. Stitch small buttons to the FRONT PANELs in the places corresponding to the FLOUNCE buttonholes.