Long Double-Breasted Raincoat
A long, fully lined women's raincoat, flared from the chest, with front yokes, a double-breasted front, a collar on a separate stand with lapels, and patch pockets with fold-over flaps. Topstitched throughout, with pointed buttoned tabs and loops on the sleeves.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a raincoat over dresses, suits or knitwear.
- For everyday city wear with trousers and boots.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Flares from the chest to the hem.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Collar on a separate stand, with lapels; the stand seams topstitched on both sides.
Front: Double-breasted, 3 buttonholes on the right front and a top buttonhole on the left front for an inner anchor button. Front yokes topstitched close to the seam and 1 cm from it.
Pockets: Patch pockets, cut double, with a cut-on flap folded down and topstitched above the fold line.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with topstitched hems; tabs with one pointed end and 2 buttonholes, and loops on the sleeves.
Back: Centre back seam, topstitched on the left back.
Finishing: Front edges, lapels and collar topstitched at the edge and 1 cm from it; hem topstitched 3 cm from the edge; 6 loops in all, over the side seams and on the sleeves; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, about 1 cm shorter than the coat.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar with stand set between the coat and the facings, double-row topstitching, a full lining with the sleeves joined through the open hem.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight, tightly woven fabrics for outerwear: cotton gabardine, raincoat poplin, water-repellent cotton or polyester blends, fine wool gabardine.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (collar, stand, centre front facings, pockets)
- Buttons for the front and the sleeve tabs
- 1 anchor button for the inner fastening
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front - 2 pieces
- Front Yoke - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces on fold
- Stand Collar - 2 pieces on fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Pocket - 4 pieces
- Sleeve Decorative Tab - 4 pieces
- A strip for 6 loops, 55 cm long and 3 cm wide (1.5 cm finished)
- From lining fabric:
- Front - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar - 1 piece on fold
- Stand Collar - 1 piece on fold
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Pocket - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the front yokes to the fronts and topstitch close to the seams and 1 cm from them.
- Sew the center back seam and topstitch the left back along the seam.
- Sew the side and shoulder seams; topstitch the front yokes and fronts along the seams.
- Collar with lapels: sew the center front facings to the front and lapel edges up to the crosswise mark, and leave them lying on the fronts for now. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching.
- Sew the stand collar pieces to the collar pieces and topstitch each assembled piece close to the seam on both sides.
- Stitch the upper and under collar together along the outer edge, slightly easing the upper collar, and turn out. Insert the collar on each side between the front and the center front facing.
- Sew the under collar with its stand into the coat neckline and the upper collar with its stand into the neckline of the facings. Clip the seam allowances of both collar seams several times and press open.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side. Pin the collar seams exactly on top of each other and stitch their seam allowances together from the wrong side.
- At the back, lay the upper collar flat over the under collar seam and stitch in the ditch from the right side.
- Turn the hem allowance to the wrong side up to the facings and topstitch 3 cm from the edge.
- Topstitch along the front edges, lapels and the outer edge of the collar, at the edge and 1 cm from it.
- Stitch the pocket pieces together around the edges and turn out. Topstitch the flap of each pocket above the fold line. Topstitch the pockets onto the fronts along the matching lines. Press the flaps down.
- Stitch the loop strip, turn out and edgestitch. Cut the strip into 6 equal parts and topstitch the loops over the side seams and onto the sleeves.
- Sew the sleeve seams. Press the sleeve hem allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Set in the sleeves. Topstitch close to the armhole seams. Attach shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining seams, leaving the back shoulder edges extending at the neckline. Set in the lining sleeves.
- Sew the lining to the center front facings, leaving about 10 cm open at the bottom. At the top, slipstitch the lining to the facings and the stand collar by hand.
- Insert each lining sleeve into the coat sleeve, turn it under in one place and pin it to the sleeve hem allowance. Through the open bottom of the coat, reach between the coat and the lining and pull the sleeve out. Sew the lining sleeve to the coat sleeve hem allowance. Turn the sleeve back.
- Turn under the lining hem and stitch it so that the lining is about 1 cm shorter than the coat.
- Close the remaining open sections of the lining seams at the facings. Sew the center front facings to the hem allowance.
- Stitch the sleeve decorative tab pieces together, shaping one end of each tab to a point; turn out and topstitch.
- Make 3 buttonholes on the right front, one top buttonhole on the left front for the inner anchor button, and 2 buttonholes (one behind the other) on the pointed end of each tab. Sew on the buttons to match.
