CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY on fold
- COLLAR - 2 QTY
- Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- FACING - 2 QTY
- Pocket - 2 QTY
- From LINING:
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY on fold
- Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- Pocket - 2 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- COLLAR - 1 QTY
- FACING - 2 QTY
- Pocket - 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- On the right outer FRONT PANEL, make 4 bound buttonholes, and on the right inner FRONT PANEL, make 1 buttonhole on the lapel: cut 10 strips of 5cm each from the TRIM STRIP (= buttonhole FACINGS) and press them in half.
- On the right side, stitch 2 FACINGS at a distance of 0.75 cm from the cut mark along the upper and lower lines so that the open sides of the FACINGS meet exactly in the middle of the buttonhole.
- Cut the FRONT PANEL between the stitching lines, not reaching the ends; at the ends of the stitching lines, slash diagonally, without damaging the FACINGS.
- Straighten the FACINGS to form an even frame and press. Turn the ends of the FACINGS and the small triangles to the wrong side.
- Baste the folds of the FACINGS. Stitch the small triangles to the FACINGS from the wrong side.
- Stitch the darts and complete the shoulder seams on the outer and inner jacket pieces.
- Stitch the SLEEVE hem FACINGS to the SLEEVE pieces made of LINING fabric.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes; set the LINING SLEEVES into the armholes of the inner jacket pieces.
- In a single seam, complete the SLEEVE seams and side seams, leaving the sides open for vents.
- Stitch one COLLAR piece into the neckline of the outer jacket up to the mark, and the second piece into the neckline of the inner jacket, for which slash the FRONT PANEL SEAM ALLOWANCES to the corner of the cut-out. Press open the COLLAR setting seam ALLOWANCES.
- Trim the integrated SEAM ALLOWANCES of the pocket tops along the mark. Bind the top of the pockets with TRIM STRIP. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the remaining pocket sides to the wrong side.
- Pin the pockets to the FRONT PANELS along the marked lines and topstitch close to the edge.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Fold the LINING with the main garment, wrong sides together. Stitch the LINING to the shoulder pads at the top of the armhole, and to the side seam ALLOWANCES at the bottom of the armhole.
- Stitch the front edges, COLLAR, bottom of the jacket, and SLEEVES 0.5 cm above the marked lines. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the marked lines. Bind the edges with TRIM STRIP.
- Baste both layers of fabric around the buttonholes. Cut the fabric under the buttonholes, except for the lapel buttonhole, through the middle of each buttonhole, and diagonally to the ends of the FACING seams. Turn the cut edges to the wrong side and hand-stitch to the FACINGS.
- Sew buttons to the left FRONT PANEL and one button to the buttonhole of the right lapel.
