Bomber Blouson-Jacket
A women's waist-length bomber jacket with set-in sleeves, a centre front zipper with visible teeth, and a knit collar, waistband and cuffs. Seams are double-topstitched from the right side, and the jacket is lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over shirts, fine knitwear and T-shirts.
- With straight or long skirts and with trousers for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose body gathered into a close-fitting knit waistband.
Length: To the waist.
Collar: Knit stand collar cut on the fold, stretched slightly as it is sewn in, with its ends exactly at the centre front.
Closure: Zipper along the full front edge, from the collar through the waistband, topstitched from the right side close to the edge and 0.75 cm from it, with the teeth left visible.
Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves finished with knit cuffs sewn into rings and stretched onto the sleeve hems.
Back: One piece cut on the fold.
Waist: Knit waistband cut on the fold and stretched onto the lower edge.
Finishing: Side, shoulder and sleeve seams pressed towards the back and topstitched close to the edge and 0.75 cm from it; armhole seams edgestitched; collar seam topstitched close to the edge and 0.75 cm from it.
Lining: Lining stitched to the zipper seam allowances at the front edges and basted to the neckline, lower edge and sleeve hems before the knit trims are attached.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. An exposed front zipper, knit trims stretched evenly onto woven fabric, double topstitching on every seam and a lining.
Fabric Recommendations
For the body and sleeves, medium-weight wool or wool-blend fabric, tweed or light coating; for the collar, waistband and cuffs, rib knit or another stretch knit with good recovery.
Additional Supplies
- Knit fabric for the collar, waistband and cuffs
- Lining fabric
- Zipper, length matched to the front edge of the jacket
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Knit fabric:
- Collar – 1 piece on fold
- Waistband – 1 piece on fold
- Cuff – 2 pieces
All pattern pieces include seam allowances!
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press seam allowances towards the back. Topstitch seams from the right side close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm. Trim excess seam allowances from the inside along the stitching line.
- Zipper: a 40 cm long zipper is only suitable for size 46. For other sizes, the zipper needs to be shortened (or lengthened) according to the blouson length. Fold the zipper tape to the right side at the top. Fold the seam allowances along the front edges and waistband ends to the wrong side. From the right side, pin the seam allowances to the zipper so that the teeth are visible. Topstitch the zipper from the right side close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
- Sleeves: Stitch the sleeve seams. Press seam allowances towards the back. Topstitch seams from the right side close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm. Trim seam allowances from the inside along the stitching line.
- Set in sleeves: Pin sleeves right sides together into armholes, matching notches. Stitch sleeves, sewing along the sleeve. Trim seam allowances to 0.5 cm width, clip curves. Press seam allowances towards the blouson. Topstitch sleeve setting seams from the right side close to the edge.
- Stitch lining seams. Stitch the lining front edge to the zipper seam allowances from the wrong side. Turn the lining out and press. Baste the lining neckline, bottom, and sleeve hem edges to the jacket.
- Pin the collar into the neckline from the right side, stretching slightly. The collar ends should lie exactly on the center front line. Stitch the collar, stretching. Trim the collar seam allowances at the front and back. Overlock seam allowances, press towards the blouson. Topstitch the collar setting seam from the right side close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
- Divide the waistband into 4 equal parts, mark with pins. Pin the waistband right sides together to the lower edge of the blouson, matching the pin marks with the side seams and the center back line. Stitch the waistband, stretching.
- Stitch cuffs right sides together into rings. Join and overlock seam allowances, press seam allowances to one side. Topstitch seams from the right side at a distance of 0.75 cm. Stitch cuffs, stretching, right sides together to the lower edges of the sleeves.
