CUTTER'S MUST
- UPPER POCKET FRAME - QTY 2
- LOWER POCKET FRAME - QTY 4
- COLLAR - QTY 2
- BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- BACK NECK FACING - QTY 1 on fold
- FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- FRONT FACING - QTY 2
- UPPER SLEEVE - QTY 2
- LOWER SLEEVE - QTY 2
- LINING UPPER SLEEVE - QTY 2
- LINING LOWER SLEEVE - QTY 2
- LINING BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- LINING FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- UPPER POCKET BAG UPPER PART - QTY 2
- UPPER POCKET BAG LOWER PART - QTY 2
- LOWER POCKET BAG UPPER PART - QTY 2
- LOWER POCKET BAG LOWER PART - QTY 2
ATTENTION! PATTERN PIECES MARKED WITH * ARE TO BE CUT FROM LINING FABRIC ONLY.
Fabric & Materials
Reinforce the front facings, back neck facing, and front panels with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch darts on the back panel and front panel, stitch the center back seam.
- On the front panels, create WELT POCKETS: On the wrong side of the front panel, press a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING about 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two pocket FACINGS right sides together with the front panel, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the FACINGS align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front panel along the line between the stitches, diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS! Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the FACINGS through the slit to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste. On the wrong side of the front panel, place the pocket bag onto the lower FACING, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, stitch the lower FACING into the attachment seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Fold under the SEAM ALLOWANCE of one of the long sides of the underlap, and topstitch the underlap onto the second pocket bag. On the wrong side of the front panel, place the second pocket bag onto the pocket and from the right side, stitch it into the attachment seam of the upper FACING. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the slit to the wrong side and stitch them to the FACINGS precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim the pocket bags to equalize them, and stitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Place the front facings right sides together with the front panels and pin to the edges of the fronts, finish the fronts with the front facings. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facing and the back neck FACING.
- Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour. Stitch the lower COLLAR into the blouse neckline, stitch the upper COLLAR into the FACING neckline. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Sew the pressed SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower COLLAR attachment and the back neck FACING from the inside.
- Hem the bottom of the jacket.
- Complete the SLEEVE seams. Set the SLEEVES into the jacket armholes, easing the cap.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch darts on the LINING back panel and front panel, stitch the LINING pieces. Attach the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVES, the inner edges of the front facings and the back neck FACING. Hem the LINING.
- On the right front panel, make buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons.
