CUTTER'S MUST
- LOWER POCKET FRAME - QTY 4
- COLLAR - QTY 2
- BACK PANEL UPPER PART - QTY 2
- BACK PANEL LOWER PART - QTY 2
- BACK NECK FACING - QTY 1 on fold
- FRONT PANEL UPPER PART - QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL LOWER PART - QTY 2
- FRONT FACING - QTY 2
- SLEEVE UPPER PART - QTY 2
- SLEEVE LOWER PART - QTY 2
- LINING SLEEVE UPPER PART - QTY 2
- LINING SLEEVE LOWER PART - QTY 2
- LINING BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- LINING FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- POCKET BAG UPPER PART - QTY 2
- POCKET BAG LOWER PART - QTY 2
- PLACKET FACING - QTY 2
ATTENTION! PATTERN PIECES MARKED WITH * ARE TO BE CUT FROM LINING FABRIC ONLY.
Fabric & Materials
FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Reinforce the front facings, back neck facing, and front panels with fusible interfacing.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch darts on back and front panel parts, stitch back and front panel parts together, stitch center back seam.
- On the front panels, create WELT POCKETS: On the wrong side of the front panel, press a strip of fusible interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two pocket facings right sides together with the front panel, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal raw edges of the facings align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front panel along the line between the stitches, diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the facings! Press seam allowances open. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side to form a neat welt, and baste. From the wrong side of the front panel, place the pocket bag on the lower facing, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, stitch the lower facing into the seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Fold under the seam allowance of one of the long sides of the underlap, and topstitch the underlap to the second pocket bag. From the wrong side of the front panel, place the second pocket bag on the pocket and from the right side, stitch into the seam of the upper facing. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the facings precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim and equalize the pocket bags, then stitch them together.
- Similarly, finish the placket opening on the front facing.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams.
- Place front facings right sides together with the front panels and pin to the raw edges of the front openings, finish the front openings with the front facings. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facing and the back neck facing.
- Neatly stitch the collar along the outer contour. Stitch the undercollar into the blouse neckline, stitch the upper collar into the facing neckline. Press seam allowances open. Sew the pressed seam allowances of the undercollar insertion and the back neck facing from the inside.
- Hem the bottom of the jacket.
- Complete the sleeve seams. Set the sleeves into the jacket armholes, easing the sleeve caps.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch darts on the back and front panel lining, stitch the lining pieces together. Attach the lining to the lower raw edges of the sleeves, the inner raw edges of the front facings, and the back neck facing. Hem the lining.
- Sew buttons to the left front panel.
