Apache Collar Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• WELT POCKET - QTY 2
• CENTER BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• SIDE BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• UPPER SIDE FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• LOWER SIDE FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• BACK NECK FACING - QTY 1 on fold
• CENTER FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• UNDERFACING, CUT-ON WITH UPPER COLLAR - QTY 2
• UPPER SLEEVE - QTY 2
• LOWER SLEEVE - QTY 2

FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Reinforce underfacings, back neck facing, and welt pockets with fusible interfacing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Sew the center back and back princess seams.
2. Fold the welt pocket piece along the fold line. Baste the lower edges of the welt pocket to the upper edge of the lower side front panel. Stitch the seam of the lower and upper side front panels, simultaneously attaching the welt pocket. Stitch the front princess seams, catching the side edge of the welt pocket.
3. Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
4. On the upper collar, cut-on with the underfacings, sew the center seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front panel and the back neck facing. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Insert the lower collar into the jacket neckline, insert the upper collar into the facing neckline. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the insertion seams close to the stitching and press open.
5. Place the underfacings right sides together with the front panels and pin to the front edges, pin the edges of the upper and lower collar. Neatly stitch the jacket along the front edges and collar. Hem the jacket. Stitch the underfacings to the bottom hem.
6. Sew the SLEEVE seams. Hem the SLEEVES and insert them into the jacket armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
7. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons.
8. Attach shoulder pads.