Princess Seam Blazer

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
2. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
3. BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
4. BACK PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
6. FRONT PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
7. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
8. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
9. Under FACING – 2 QTY
10. Neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Center BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
2. BACK PANEL SIDE - 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
4. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
5. Pocket Bag – 4 QTY
6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: under FACING, back neckline FACING, front panel side, center front panel, upper part of the center back panel with armhole section, lower part of the center back panel, armhole of the back panel side, lower part of the back panel side, lower part of the lower sleeve, lower part of the upper sleeve, COLLAR.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the under FACING, back neckline FACING, front panel side, center front panel, upper part of the center back panel with armhole section, lower part of the center back panel, armhole of the back panel side, lower part of the back panel side, lower part of the lower sleeve, lower part of the upper sleeve, COLLAR.
2. Place the pocket bag right side down onto the right side of the side and center front panels, aligning with the NOTCHES, and stitch. Fold back the SEAM and topstitch onto the pocket bag.
3. Stitch the front panel princess seams and the pocket bag. Clip the princess SEAMs and press open, pressing the pocket.
4. Face the jacket fronts with the under FACINGs, rounding the corners at the top and bottom. Trim, turn out the corners of the jacket front at the top and bottom.
5. Stitch the back neckline FACING to the under FACINGs and press open the shoulder SEAMs of the FACING and under FACING.
6. Stitch the center back SEAM and the back princess seams. Press open the princess seams and the center back SEAM.
7. Stitch the shoulder and side SEAMs of the jacket. Press open the shoulder and side SEAMs.
8. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and face the lower COLLAR with the upper COLLAR, rounding the ends. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners.
9. Stitch the lapel of the upper COLLAR into the front panel neckline. Press open the lapels.
10. Stitch the vertical dart, continuing the COLLAR attachment.
11. Stitch in the lower COLLAR. Press open the vertical darts and the COLLAR attachment SEAM.
12. Secure the COLLAR attachment SEAMs.
13. Stitch and press open the elbow SEAM of the SLEEVE.
14. Stitch and press open the front SEAM of the SLEEVE.
15. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, aligning with the NOTCHES.
16. Stitch the LINING pieces, leaving an opening in the right SLEEVE. Press the LINING.
17. Stitch in the shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
18. Stitch the LINING to the under FACINGs and back neckline FACING, to the bottom of the jacket, aligning the LINING SEAMs with the garment SEAMs, to the bottom of the garment SLEEVE. Place 7 bar tacks at the bottom of the jacket above the SEAMs.
19. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the technical opening in the SLEEVE.
20. On the right front panel, make buttonholes, and on the left front panel, sew on buttons.