CUTTER'S MUST
- FLAP - 4 QTY
- POCKET FACING - 2 QTY
- POCKET FACING - 4 QTY
- LOWER COLLAR - 2 QTY
- UPPER COLLAR - 1 QTY on fold
- CENTER BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- SIDE BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY on fold
- SIDE FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
- UPPER SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- LOWER SLEEVE - 2 QTY
LINING
- POCKET BAG - 4 QTY
- BACK LINING - 1 QTY on fold
- FRONT LINING - 2 QTY
- UPPER SLEEVE LINING - 2 QTY
- LOWER SLEEVE LINING - 2 QTY
ATTENTION! PATTERN PIECES MARKED WITH * ARE TO BE CUT FROM LINING FABRIC ONLY.
FUSIBLE INTERFACING
- FLAP - 2 QTY
- POCKET FACING - 2 QTY
- POCKET FACING - 4 QTY
- LOWER COLLAR - 2 QTY
- UPPER COLLAR - 1 QTY on fold
- BACK SHOULDER YOKE - 2 QTY
- SIDE BACK PANEL REINFORCEMENT - 2 QTY
- BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY on fold
- BACK HEM ALLOWANCE - 2 QTY
- SIDE BACK HEM ALLOWANCE - 2 QTY
- SIDE FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
- UPPER SLEEVE ALLOWANCE - 2 QTY
- LOWER SLEEVE ALLOWANCE - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE CAP REINFORCEMENT - 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- FRONT PANELS: Stitch the front princess seams up to the corners of the front panels at the pocket openings. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the cross-sections (pocket openings) on the center and side front panels, notching precisely to the last stitch of the center front panel SEAM ALLOWANCES. Press the princess seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Baste the openings with cross stitches, precisely aligning the edges of the openings.
- On the FRONT PANELS, create WELT POCKETS WITH FLAPS: Stitch one reinforced and one unreinforced FLAP right sides together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, press a 4 cm wide strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING over the pocket marking. Place two pocket FACINGS right sides together with the FRONT PANEL, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the FACINGS align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL along the lines between the stitching, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS! Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the FACINGS in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch in the ditch of the attachment seams. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch to the FACINGS precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Insert the raw edges of the FLAPS between the FACINGS, and stitch into the attachment seams of the upper FACINGS. From the inside, stitch the POCKET BAGS to the FLAP attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachment seams. Trim and stitch the POCKET BAGS.
- Stitch the back princess seams and the center back seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Place the FRONT FACINGS right sides together with the FRONT PANELS and pin to the front edges, stitch the front edges with the FRONT FACINGS. Stitch the shoulder seams of the FRONT FACING and the back neck FACING.
- Stitch the center seam of the LOWER COLLAR, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the COLLAR neatly along the outer contour. Attach the LOWER COLLAR to the neckline of the blouse, attach the UPPER COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the pressed SEAM ALLOWANCES of the LOWER COLLAR attachment seams and the back neck FACING from the inside.
- Hem the bottom of the jacket.
- Create the SLEEVE seams, leaving the SLEEVE vents open at the elbow seams. Notch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower SLEEVE parts above the vent marking. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open above the vent. Finish the SLEEVES with a hem. Press the vent edges on the upper SLEEVE parts to the wrong side. Pin the vents, topstitch the vent edges together from the inside. Set the SLEEVES into the jacket armholes, easing the SLEEVE cap.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the darts on the back and front LINING, stitch the cut pieces from the LINING fabric. Attach the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVES, the inner edges of the FRONT FACINGS, and the back neck FACING. Hem the LINING.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.
