Knee-Length Princess Seams Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. COLLAR - QTY 2
• 2. FRONT PANEL CENTER - QTY 2
• 3. POCKET FLAP - QTY 4
• 4. BACK PANEL CENTER - QTY 2
• 5. BACK PANEL SIDE - QTY 2
• 6. FRONT PANEL SIDE - QTY 2
• 7. BACK NECK FACING - QTY 1 on fold
• 8. SLEEVE UPPER PART - QTY 2
• 9. SLEEVE LOWER PART - QTY 2
• From LINING:
• 10. POCKET BAG - QTY 4
• 11. FRONT PANEL CENTER - QTY 2 minus facing width
• 12. BACK PANEL CENTER - QTY 2
• 13. BACK PANEL SIDE - QTY 2
• 14. FRONT PANEL SIDE - QTY 2
• 15. SLEEVE UPPER PART - QTY 2
• 16. SLEEVE LOWER PART - QTY 2
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the facing details, back neck facing, lower parts of the pocket flaps. Additionally, press the interfacing to the hem allowances.

Sewing Instructions

1. Pockets: Neatly stitch the pocket flaps, topstitch the edges at 1 cm. On the center FRONT PANEL, align the flap face to face according to the marks, and on top of it, place one pocket bag and stitch it to the pocket opening. Place the second pocket bag on the side FRONT PANEL and stitch it as well. Turn the pocket bags to the wrong side, stitch the front relief seams above and below the pocket openings. From the pocket opening markings, stitch the pocket bag edges from the inside. Press the relief seam allowances towards the center FRONT PANELS. Topstitch the center FRONT PANELS along the relief seams at 1 cm. Stitch the short sides of the pocket flaps to the FRONT PANEL precisely into the decorative stitching line.
2. Complete the center seam of the back panel up to the vent mark, press open. Press the allowances towards the left back panel.
3. Stitch the back relief seams, side seams, and shoulder seams, shoulder seams of the facings and back neck facing.
4. Front edges and collar: Turn the integrated facings to the right side, topstitch to the neckline up to the mark. Clip the neckline allowances near the mark, trim the allowances diagonally at the front corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side. Neatly stitch the collar along the outer contour. Stitch one collar piece face to face into the neckline. Attach the other collar piece to the neck facing and facings. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the pressed seam allowances of the lower collar attachment and back neck facing from the inside.
5. Bottom edge: Lay the facings forward. Turn the hem allowances to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the facings to the wrong side.
6. Back vent: Press the left vent edge to the wrong side, stitch to the hem allowances. On the right vent allowance, press the integrated facing to the wrong side, stitch to the hem allowances. Pin the vent along the alignment lines. Topstitch the left back panel at the beginning of the vent according to the markings, catching the vent edges.
7. Sleeves: Complete the sleeve seams. Set the sleeves into the coat armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
8. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Stitch the LINING fabric pieces. Attach the LINING to the lower sleeve edges, inner edges of the facings, and back neck facing. Carefully pin the LINING in the back vent area. Cut the LINING along the vent accordingly, remembering the allowances! Turn under the LINING edge and stitch to the vent edges. Hem the LINING.
10. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes, on the left, sew on buttons.