Short Coat with Shaped Princess Seams

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. COLLAR - 2 QTY
• 2. FRONT PANEL CENTER - 2 QTY
• 3. BACK PANEL CENTER - 2 QTY
• 4. BACK PANEL SIDE - 2 QTY
• 5. FRONT PANEL SIDE - 2 QTY
• 6. BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY on fold
• 7. SLEEVE UPPER PART - 2 QTY
• 8. SLEEVE LOWER PART - 2 QTY
• From LINING:
• 9. POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
• 10. FRONT PANEL CENTER - 2 QTY minus facing width
• 11. BACK PANEL CENTER - 2 QTY minus back neck FACING width
• 12. BACK PANEL SIDE - 2 QTY
• 13. FRONT PANEL SIDE - 2 QTY
• 14. SLEEVE UPPER PART - 2 QTY
• 15. SLEEVE LOWER PART - 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the FACING details, back neck FACING, lower parts of the welts. Additionally, iron the FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.

Sewing Instructions

1. Pockets: Stitch pocket bags right sides together to pocket openings on the center FRONT PANELS. Clip the FRONT PANEL SEAM ALLOWANCES diagonally into the front corners. Turn the pocket bags to the wrong side. Topstitch the edges of the openings to the corners at a distance of 1.8 cm. Stitch the front princess seams above the pocket openings, clipping the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the center FRONT PANELS at the top into the corners. Press the princess seam SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center FRONT PANELS. Pin the pocket openings along the alignment lines to the pocket bags on the SIDE PANELS of the FRONT PANELS. From the inside, stitch the front and lower edges of the pocket bags from the pocket opening markings. Baste the side edges of the pocket bags under the center FRONT PANELS. Topstitch the center FRONT PANELS along the princess seams to the stitching lines at the pocket openings at a distance of 1.8 cm.
2. Sew the center seam of the center BACK PANEL up to the vent mark, press open. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the left BACK PANEL.
3. Stitch the back princess seams, side seams, shoulder seams, and the shoulder seams of the FACINGS and back neck FACING.
4. Front edges and COLLAR: Turn the integrated FACINGS to the right side, topstitch to the neckline at the top up to the mark. Clip the neckline SEAM ALLOWANCES near the mark, trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES diagonally at the front corners. Turn the FACINGS to the wrong side. Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour. Stitch one COLLAR piece right sides together into the neckline. Attach the other COLLAR piece to the neck FACING and FACINGS. Press the seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Sew the pressed seam SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower COLLAR and back neck FACING from the inside.
5. Lower edge: Lay the FACINGS forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the FACINGS to the wrong side.
6. Vent at the BACK PANEL: Press the left edge of the vent to the wrong side, stitch to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES. On the right vent SEAM ALLOWANCE, press the integrated FACING to the wrong side, stitch to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES. Pin the vent along the alignment lines. Topstitch the left BACK PANEL at the beginning of the vent according to the markings, catching the edges of the vent.
7. SLEEVES: Sew the SLEEVE seams. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes of the coat, easing the cap.
8. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Stitch the cut pieces from the LINING fabric. Attach the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVES, the inner edges of the FACINGS, and the back neck FACING. Carefully pin the LINING in the area of the vent on the BACK PANEL. Cut the LINING along the vent accordingly, remembering the SEAM ALLOWANCES! Turn under the edges of the LINING and stitch to the edges of the vent. Hem the LINING.
10. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes, on the left, sew on buttons.