CUTTER'S MUST
- BACK LOWER PART - QTY 2
- BACK SIDE PANEL 2 - QTY 2
- BACK SIDE PANEL 1 - QTY 2
- BACK CENTRAL PART - QTY 1 on fold
- BACK NECK FACING - QTY 1 on fold
- TAB - QTY 2
- POCKET LIP - QTY 4
- POCKET BAG - QTY 4
- FRONT PANEL CENTRAL PART - QTY 2
- FRONT FACING - QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL SIDE PART 2 - QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL SIDE PART 1 - QTY 2
- SLEEVE UPPER PART - QTY 2
- SLEEVE LOWER PART - QTY 2
- SLEEVE UPPER PART LINING - QTY 2
- SLEEVE LOWER PART LINING - QTY 2
- BACK LINING - QTY 1 on fold
- FRONT PANEL LINING - QTY 2
ATTENTION! PATTERN PIECES MARKED WITH * ARE CUT FROM LINING FABRIC ONLY.
FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Reinforce the front facings, back neck facing, lower parts of the pocket lips, and the tab with fusible interfacing. Additionally, press fusible interfacing to the hem allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the center seam of the back lower part, press open. Aligning the notches, create and baste the pleat. Then stitch it, sewing along the upper allowance slightly above the marked stitch line.
- Assemble the back: stitch the seam connecting the back central part to the back lower part, and the relief seams.
- Stitch the tab along three sides, turn right side out, and press the folds. Turning under the open edge, stitch along the edges of the tab at a distance of 0.5 cm. Attach the tab to the back with buttons, covering the seam connecting the back central part to the back lower part.
- Stitch the pocket lip piece along three sides, turn right side out, and press the folds. Topstitch along the edges of the pocket lip at a distance of 0.5 cm. Align the open edges of the pocket lip with the relief edge of front panel side part 2, placing the pocket lip on the right side of front panel side part 2 and aligning the upper edge of the pocket lip with the notch; place the upper part of the pocket bag on top of the pocket lip, baste all together. Place the lower part of the pocket bag on the right side of front panel side part 1. Stitch the pocket lip and pocket bags. Stitch the front panel relief seams. Turn the pocket bags inwards, align, and stitch. Topstitch the short sides of the pocket lips to the front panel into the topstitch seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- On the upper collar, cut in one piece with the front facings, sew the center seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neck facing. Insert the lower collar into the coat neckline, insert the upper collar into the facing neckline. Press the seam allowances of the insertion seams open.
- Fold the front facings with the front panels right sides together and pin to the edges of the fronts, pin the edges of the upper and lower collar. Clean finish the coat along the fronts and collar. Sew the pressed open seam allowances of the lower collar insertion and the back neck facing from the inside.
- Hem the bottom of the coat.
- Sew the sleeve seams, finish the vent in the elbow seam. Insert the sleeves into the coat armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
- Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch the cut pieces from the lining fabric. Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the front facings, and the back neck facing. Hem the lining.
- On the right front panel, overcast the buttonholes, on the left, sew on the buttons.
