Lapel Jacket With Drawstring 3/4 Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: coat fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; 3 snaps; 2 eyelets; 2 cord ends; drawstring.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Top edge of pocket – 3 cm, hem allowance 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Undercollar - 1 piece
  • Top collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Pocket – 2 pieces
  • Drawstring casing – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERLINING:
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Top collar - 1 piece

ATTENTION: Back, front, and sleeve lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing, front facing, and cuff respectively.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Along the lapel roll line on the front piece, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interlining).
2. Stitch darts on the front piece. Trim the depth and press towards the center.
3. Overlock the top edge of the pocket, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Press the side and bottom allowances of the pocket inwards. Place the pocket on the front piece according to the markings and topstitch along the side and bottom edges. There are no pocket markings on the front piece.
4. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the coat. Attach the sleeves. Press allowances open.
5. Stitch the side seam simultaneously with the sleeve seam. Press the allowance towards the back. Stitch the cuff seam, press allowances open. Fold the cuff to the sleeve right sides together and stitch. Turn the cuff to the wrong side.
6. Punch eyelets on the front piece. Place the drawstring casing right side down on the wrong side of the coat and topstitch along the long edges.
7. Place the top collar with the undercollar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar out, shape, and press.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Sew snaps to the right front facing.
9. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done upwards to the notch, which defines the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the allowance of the front edge seam: in the fastener area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front piece. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn out the front edges, straighten seams. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the cuff.
10. Attach the undercollar to the coat neckline, and the top collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
11. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left sleeve.
12. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings, back neckline facing, and the bottom of the coat.
13. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve lining.
14. Sew snaps to the left front piece. Thread the cord through the casing, secure cord ends. Turn the cuffs to the right side.