Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; thin shoulder pads. FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: center front panel, front facing, back neckline facing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem of garment and sleeve 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part — 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces
• Lining fabric pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing.
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part — 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the back neckline, apply an additional fusible stay tape.
2. Stitch the princess seam on the front. Press seam allowances open. Attach the pocket lining to the front. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Press seam allowances upwards. Attach the pocket lining to the lower front part. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Attach the lower part to the front in two sections: from the edge to the pocket and from the pocket to the side seam. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the pocket bag. Press seam allowances.
3. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowance open.
4. Stitch the jacket shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the jacket side seams. Press seam allowances open.
5. Stitch the sleeve elbow seam. Press the elbow seam open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
6. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap in the upper part. Attach shoulder pads.
7. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam. Attach the lining to the facing and front facing.
8. Place the jacket and lining right sides together, pin, aligning outer edges. Stitch the lining to the front edge and neckline. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure the lining to the main fabric at the front waist seam. Close the technical opening.