Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 6 buttons; shoulder pads; sleeve head rolls.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem and garment hem - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Front lining - 2 pieces
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces

  Lining pieces for the upper back parts are cut deducting the width of the neckline facing.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Collar - 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Also fuse the allowances of the garment hem, sleeve hem, and one-piece flaps.
2. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards.
3. Place the flap lining with the main piece right sides together and stitch along the contour. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked seam allowance line of the upper edge of the flap lining. Clip allowances at curves and notches, turn the flap right side out, straighten, and press.
4. Stitch bust darts, press depths upwards. Stitch the center and side front parts, press allowances towards the center.
5. Attach the lower front part to the upper, leaving the pocket opening unstitched. Clip allowances at notches and press upwards. Place the lower pocket bag on the lower front part and stitch the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side. Attach the upper pocket bag to the flap lining. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
7. Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start stitching exactly at the marked seam line for collar attachment. Clip allowances at curves, turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
9. Place the front facing with the front piece right sides together and stitch the lower corner, front edge, and neckline edge up to the notch. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge from bottom to neckline onto the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Clip the allowance at the neckline near the notch. Turn the front edge to the right side, straighten the seams. Attach the upper collar to the back neckline and front pieces, press allowances open. Attach the lower collar to the facing neckline and front facing, press allowances open.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
11. Set in sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
12. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set in sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
13. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
14. Attach the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
15. On the right front, overcast buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.