Straight Leg Trousers with Double Welt Pockets
Women's full-length straight-leg trousers with a zip fly, a straight interfaced waistband fastened with one button, and two horizontal double-welt pockets on the fronts. Shaped with darts at the front and back.
When To Wear
- For the office and business meetings, with a shirt or a jacket in matching suiting.
- All year round, in suiting fabric of a weight to suit the season.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight legs from the hip to the hem.
Length: Full length.
Waist: Straight waistband, interfaced, extended 3 cm beyond the fly on the right side, with a buttonhole on the right end and a button on the left; one dart under each front pocket and two darts on each back piece.
Closure: Front fly with a zipper and cut-on fly facings; the right front is topstitched along the fly.
Pockets: Horizontal double-welt (jetted) pockets on the fronts below the waistband, each with two welt facings and a two-piece pocket bag; the pocket opening is reinforced with a strip of interfacing about 4 cm wide.
Back: Plain back with darts, no pockets.
Finishing: Seam allowances overlocked and pressed open; hem overlocked and sewn by hand.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Double-welt pockets cut and turned through a frame, a zip fly with cut-on facings, and a waistband with an extension.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics; the sample is made in fine pinstripe suiting, 150 cm wide.
Additional Supplies
- Zipper, 20 cm
- 1 button
- Fusible interfacing (waistband, pocket opening strips)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front Half – 2 pieces
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Pocket Welt Facing – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Waistband – 1 piece; a strip approx. 4 cm wide for each pocket opening.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the waistband with fusible interfacing (Heat-adhesive interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a strongly heated iron).
- Stitch the darts, press them towards the center seam.
- Make the double welt pockets: on the wrong side of the Front Half, iron a strip of fusible interfacing approx. 4 cm wide over the pocket marking.
- Place both welt facings on the Front Half, right sides together, pin along the marked pocket opening line and stitch along the marking, aligning the longitudinal edges of the facings exactly with the pocket opening line.
- Cut the Front Half between the stitching lines, cutting diagonally into the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the facings! Press seam allowances towards the trousers.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side to form two neat welts (a frame), and baste.
- From the right side of the trousers, stitch precisely into the seams where the facings were attached.
- Turn the small triangles at the ends of the cut to the wrong side and topstitch onto the facings precisely from the ends of one stitching line to the ends of the other.
- From the wrong side of the trousers, stitch the pocket bags to the seam allowances of the facing attachment seams, press the pocket bags downwards, trim them even and stitch them together.
- Stitch the side seams and inseams. Overlock seam allowances and press open.
- Stitch the front crotch seam from the zipper mark downwards and, without breaking the stitching, continue along the back crotch seam.
- Press the cut-on fly facings to the wrong side: on the right half along the center front line, on the left along the marked fold line (= zipper extension).
- Stitch the zipper under the folded edge of the left extension, edgestitching close to the teeth.
- Pin the opening, aligning the center front lines.
- Stitch the free zipper tape to the right fly facing only, without catching the trouser front.
- Topstitch the right front along the fly, catching the facing.
- Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers, leaving the end extending 3 cm beyond the fly edge on the right side.
- Fold the waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch the ends, angling the short edges of the extension.
- Trim seam allowances close to the stitching. Turn the waistband out.
- Fold the inner half of the waistband under and hand stitch.
- Make a buttonhole on the right end of the waistband and sew the button on the left end.
- Overlock the bottom edges, press the hem allowance to the wrong side and hand stitch.
