Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; shoulder pads; 1 button.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side upper back – 2 pieces
  • Side lower back – 2 pieces
  • Side lower front – 2 pieces
  • Side upper front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Undercollar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper collar - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the lapel roll line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
2. Stitch the upper and lower side back pieces. Finish seam allowances and press upwards. Stitch and press open the back princess seams, finish seam allowances. Stitch and press open the center back seam, finish seam allowance.
3. Stitch the upper and lower side front pieces. Finish seam allowances and press upwards. Stitch and press open the front princess seams, finish seam allowances.
4. Stitch and press open the jacket's shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances open and finish.
5. Place the upper collar on the undercollar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Finish the outer edge.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the front edge seam allowance: in the buttonhole area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the jacket front. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front facings right side out, shape the seams.
8. Attach the undercollar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam. Finish seam allowance and press towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes. Finish seam allowances and press.
10. Finish the bottom allowances of the jacket and sleeves. Fold inwards and hem by hand with blind stitches.
11. On the right front, make a buttonhole, and on the left front, sew on a button.