Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; shoulder pads; 2 buttons; buckle.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING DETAILS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Side panel – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 4 pieces
  • Pocket facing – 4 pieces
  • Belt – 1 piece
  • Belt loop – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Side panel – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces

  Attention! Back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the back neckline facing and front facing respectively.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Pocket facing – 4 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Cut the front along the pocket line, stopping 1.0 cm before the vertical side of the dart. Stitch the dart, trim seam allowance to 1 cm and press open. Secure the pocket opening with a stay tape or baste. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
4. Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides. Trim seam allowances at flap corners, clip curves, turn right side out. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
5. Mark the pocket placement. Fold pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Stitch the pocket lining to the flap. Stitch the facings to the front. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch to the upper pocket facing. Stitch the lower pocket lining into the seam of the lower facing attachment, trim and stitch the pocket lining.
6. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
7. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the one-piece collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
8. Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowance open. Attach the one-piece collar to the neckline of the facing, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
9. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the lower corner, front edge, and collar. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn front facings to the wrong side and press.
10. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Attach shoulder pads.
11. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning later. Press allowances.
12. Stitch the lining to the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
13. Finish the bottom edge of the garment with lining. Turn right side out through the opening. Finish the lower edge of the sleeve with lining. Stitch the technical opening closed.
14. Topstitch along the front edges and bottom hem 4 cm from the edge.
15. Make buttonholes on the front. Sew on buttons: main and hidden.
16. Overlock one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 4 pieces. Topstitch belt loops to the princess seams at the waist.
17. Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Overlock the short side. Topstitch 0.5 cm around the perimeter. Thread and secure the buckle on the overlocked side of the belt. Punch holes.