Real leather jacket
A fitted women's leather jacket at hip length with a stand collar, a separating zipper, shoulder yokes and panelled body and sleeves, every seam topstitched 0.2 cm. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over shirts, tops and fine knitwear.
- With jeans, trousers or a straight skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Stand collar, topstitched around its edge.
Sleeves: Long, set-in, two-piece with an elbow seam; the upper sleeve has an insert between two parts and the under sleeve a horizontal seam.
Closure: Separating zipper at the centre front, with an extra topstitching line 0.5 cm from the zipper.
Front: Princess seams and a curved horizontal seam dividing upper and lower parts; a shoulder yoke joining front and back.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and a horizontal seam above the hem; shoulder yoke.
Finishing: All panel seams pressed to one side or open and topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Lining: Full lining with simpler panels (centre back, side back, front, two-piece sleeve), attached to the facings and hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panels to join and topstitch in leather, a stand collar with facings, a separating zipper and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux or genuine leather.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Separating zipper
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve hem – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Central upper back – 2 pieces
- Central lower back – 2 pieces
- Side upper back – 2 pieces
- Side lower back – 2 pieces
- Central upper front – 2 pieces
- Central lower front – 2 pieces
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- Side lower front – 2 pieces
- Yoke — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part_1 – 2 pieces
- Sleeve insert — 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part_2 – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part_1 – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part_2 — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Central back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Stitch the contoured edges of the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances towards the center and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the center edges of the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances open and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the contoured edges of the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances towards the center and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Attach the yoke to the back, press seam allowance onto the yoke and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach the yoke to the front, press seam allowance onto the yoke and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch side seams, press seam allowances open.
- Attach the sleeve insert to upper sleeve part_1, press seam allowances onto the insert and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach upper sleeve part_2 to the sleeve insert, press seam allowances onto the insert and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch lower sleeve part_1 and lower sleeve part_2, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press seam allowance onto the upper sleeve and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes.
- Attach the separating zipper to the front edges (teeth facing away from the center).
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline of the main garment, clip and press seam allowances open.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Attach the inner collar stand to the neckline, clip and press seam allowances open. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the lower corner of the front edge, the front edge, and the collar stand. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn out and press. Secure the collar stand attachment allowances together.
- Stitch lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach sleeves. Attach lining to front facings and back neckline facing, and to the bottom edge. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Attach lining to the sleeve hem through the technical opening, press seam allowances. Close the opening.
- Topstitch along the contour of the collar stand. Add an additional topstitch along the front edge 0.5 cm from the zipper.
