Asymmetrical Zipper Jacket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thick double-sided fabrics with a slight nap, made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: 1 separating zipper; bias tape; lining fabric.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment, sleeve hem, collar edge – 2 cm, outer edge of the front opening – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Bottom band – 1 piece
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Pocket frame – 4 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch the center back seams, overcast and press open the allowances. Attach the back yoke. Overcast the allowance and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch from the right side 0.5 cm from the seam.
2. Attach the yoke to the side front, press allowances towards the yoke, overcast. Topstitch from the right side 0.5 cm from the seam.
3. Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Fold the pocket frames in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket frame for attaching it parallel to the fold. Attach the large pocket bag to the upper frame. Attach the frames to the front. Cut the front along the line marked on the pattern. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frames through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the frames so that the pressed folds of the frames meet flush. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Attach the small pocket bag to the seam of the lower frame. Stitch and overcast the upper edges of the pocket bags. Stitch and overcast the upper and side edges of the pocket bags. Secure the lower and center allowances to the main garment piece, then treat as one piece.
4. Stitch the side seams, press open and overcast the allowances. Attach the bottom band to the jacket. Overcast the allowance and press it upwards. Topstitch from the right side 0.5 cm from the seam.
5. Stitch the right princess seams of the front, overcast and press allowances towards the side seam. Overcast the allowances of the left princess seam separately, insert the left part of the zipper from the bottom to the large mark and stitch. Press allowances towards the side seam, topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
6. Stitch the side seams, press open and overcast the allowances.
7. Overcast the left edge of the front opening. Attach the right part of the zipper to the edge of the front opening of the right front piece, teeth facing away from the edge. Press allowances to the wrong side and topstitch along the front opening 0.5 cm. Trim the allowance of the left front opening to 1 cm, overcast. Turn the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch 1.5 cm from the edge.
8. Press the collar edge allowance to the wrong side and secure with a narrow zigzag stitch. Fold the collar and jacket with wrong sides together and attach the collar to the neckline. Smooth out the collar. Direct the allowance downwards. Place bias tape over the seam, covering it, and topstitch.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam, overcast and press open the allowances. Press the sleeve hem to the right side. Secure the hem allowance on the right side with a thin zigzag stitch. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
10. Overcast and press up the bottom hem of the garment. Topstitch 1.5 cm from the edge.