Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, contrasting or coordinating fabric for trim. ALSO NEEDED: lining fabric; fusible interlining; 2 zippers; 1 separating zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Right front part – 1 piece
- Left central front part – 1 piece
- Left side front part – 1 piece
- Collar – 4 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From trim fabric:
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Pocket facing – 4 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Right front part – 1 piece
- Left central front part – 1 piece
- Left side front part – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Pocket facing – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back lining – 2 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch the bust dart on the right front, press depth upwards. Stitch the princess seam of the left front, inserting the left part of the zipper between the pieces. Attach the front to the side panel, press allowances open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Reinforce the pocket opening with a grainline strip. Fold the pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark auxiliary lines on the front parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the pocket facings. Attach the facings to the front. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the zipper under the pocket opening and stitch it into the seam of the facing attachment. Attach the large pocket bag to the upper pocket facing. Attach the small pocket bag to the lower facing, trim and stitch the pocket bag.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the collar pieces in pairs, press allowances open. Attach the undercollar to the garment neckline, clip and press allowances open.
- Attach the outer placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the front facings and back neckline facing, clip and press allowances open. Attach the inner placket to the front facing, press allowances towards the placket.
- Attach the right part of the zipper to the edge of the right front part, teeth facing away from the edge. Fold the front facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, collar edge, and lower corner of the front. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the piece right side out. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining allowances.
- Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten the seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
- Mark and press up the garment hem. Finish the sleeve hem and garment hem with lining. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
