Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense raincoat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Contrasting color fabric for trim. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; separating zipper; decorative cord; 2 eyelets; 2 cord stoppers; 2 buttons; 8 small buttons for the hood.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Allowance along the diagonal back edge – 5 cm. Allowance along the sleeve hem – 4 cm. Allowance for the upper edge of pockets – 3 cm. Allowance for the lower edge of the hood and hood facing – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING DETAILS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! INSCRIPTIONS ON PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE FACE SIDE!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Right front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 1 piece
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Hood facing – 1 piece
- Upper pocket – 1 piece
- Lower pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Casing – 1 piece
- Hem facing – 2 pieces
- From contrasting fabric:
- Front insert – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front placket – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Hem facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
- Stitch the front insert to the front yoke, press allowances towards the insert, serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edge. Stitch the right front to the insert, press allowances towards the insert, serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Fuse interfacing to the upper edge allowance of the upper pocket, press 1 cm to the wrong side. Fold the upper edge allowance to the right side and stitch the side edges. Turn to the right side, straighten corners. Press side and lower allowances to the wrong side. Topstitch the upper edge allowance at 2.0 cm. Topstitch the pocket onto the front according to markings.
- Fuse interfacing to the upper edge allowance of the lower pocket, press 1 cm to the wrong side. Fold the upper edge allowance to the right side and stitch the side edges. Turn to the right side, straighten corners. Press side and lower allowances to the wrong side. Topstitch the upper edge allowance at 2.0 cm. Topstitch the pocket onto the front according to markings. Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim allowances at corners, turn flaps to the right side, straighten, press. Topstitch along the flap 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the edge. Serge the upper edge. Stitch flaps to the front, fold down and topstitch.
- Serge allowances of the diagonal back edge. Stitch the center back seam, clip the allowance of the right part at the lower corner. Press allowances to the left side and serge.
- Stitch the back yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke, serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Punch eyelets on the front according to markings. Press allowances of the long sides of the casing to the wrong side. Place the casing wrong side onto the wrong side of the garment and topstitch.
- Stitch the outer collar stand into the neckline, clip and press allowances open.
- Place the right side of the zipper with the edge of the front and collar stand (teeth facing away from the edge) and stitch. Process the left front similarly.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Stitch the inner collar stand into the neckline, clip and press allowances open. Serge the outer edge of the hem facing. Stitch hem facings to front facings.
- Stitch hem facings to the diagonal back edges. Place the front facing with facings on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the lower edge, front edge, and collar stand edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn front facing with facings to the wrong side, straighten, press. Topstitch the allowance of the lower edge and diagonal back edge to the garment.
- Place the tab right sides together and stitch the long side and corner. Trim allowances, turn tab to the right side, press and topstitch 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the edge. Stitch the sleeve seam, inserting the tab, press allowances and serge. Stitch sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the front placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the corners. Turn to the right side and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, upper and lower edges. Serge the inner edge. Place the placket on the front (fold facing away from the edge) and topstitch along the marked line. Fold back the placket, covering the zipper, and topstitch along the stitching seam.
- Serge buttonholes on the tabs, and sew corresponding buttons on the sleeves. Thread the cord through the casing, secure the cord stoppers.
- Stitch the hood seam, press allowances and serge. Serge the outer edge of the hood facing. Place the hood facing with the hood right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances at curves. Turn the hood to the right side, straighten, press. Topstitch the facing to the hood along the inner edge. Serge the lower edge of the hood, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Serge buttonholes on the hood neckline. Sew buttons on the collar stand stitching seam.
