Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining; fusible interfacing; 2 buttons; 3 internal buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part — 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part — 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the underlap to the large pocket bag. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. End stitching at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with double backstitching at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Fold and secure the inverted pleat on the side front part, aligning the triangular marks. Clip the allowance at the corner. Attach the center front part to the side part. Press seam allowances open.
- Fold in and press the upper, lower, and side allowances of the decorative piece. Place the piece on the front and topstitch 0.3-0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the front sleeve seam, press seam allowances open. Stitch the elbow sleeve seam. Press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes. Press seam allowances.
- On the right front facing, make buttonholes for the internal buttons. Stitch the shoulder edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Press seam allowances open.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line to the neckline. Trim seam allowances, clip curves, turn right side out, and press.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, stitching the upper corners up to the center line. Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the front facing and neckline facing. Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the main garment. Press seam allowances open and secure them together.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam.
- Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Attach the lower edge of the lining to the lower edge of the garment. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn right side out through the opening. Sew the opening closed.
- Make two buttonholes on the right front. Sew buttons on the left front. Sew on the internal buttons.
