Hooded Drawstring Waist Jacket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: rainwear fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; separating zipper; decorative cord; 2 eyelets; 2 cord stoppers; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and the upper edge of the pocket – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Hood – 2 pieces
  • Center hood piece – 1 piece
  • Hood facing – 2 pieces
  • Pocket – 2 pieces
  • Flap – 4 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Tab – 2 pieces
  • Drawstring casing – 1 piece on fold
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Hood facing – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Hood – 2 pieces
  • Center hood piece – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Form and secure the inverted pleat on the pocket piece. Fold the upper pocket allowance to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by 2 cm, and topstitch. Press the side and bottom edges of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the front according to the markings and topstitch. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Clip the allowances at the curves, turn the flaps right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along the flap 0.5 cm from the edge. Overcast the upper edge. Attach the flaps to the front (corner pointing towards the neckline), fold down, and topstitch.
3. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances open.
4. Attach the sleeves to the garment, press allowances towards the sleeve. Stitch the side seams, simultaneously with the sleeve seams, press allowances towards the back.
5. Punch eyelets on the front according to the markings. Press the allowances of the drawstring casing around the perimeter to the wrong side. Place the drawstring casing wrong side up on the wrong side of the garment and topstitch.
6. Attach the side hood pieces to the center hood piece, press allowances towards the center piece. Attach the facing to the hood, press allowances towards the facing.
7. Set the hood into the neckline, press allowances open.
8. Fold the left front placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short edges. Turn right side out, shape, and press. Place the left side of the zipper with the edge of the front and hood (teeth pointing away from the edge), place the left placket, and stitch. Place the right side of the zipper with the edge of the front and hood (teeth pointing away from the edge) and stitch.
9. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the hood pieces and center piece from the lining fabric, press allowances towards the center piece. Attach the facing to the hood lining, press allowances towards the facing. Set the hood into the neckline of the facings, press allowances open.
10. Place the facings with the hood right sides together with the main garment and stitch the edge of the front and hood. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side, shape, and press. Secure the hood insertion allowances together.
11. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve.
12. Fold the tab right sides together and stitch the long side and corner. Trim allowances, turn the tab right side out, press, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Attach the tab to the inner part of the cuff according to the markings.
13. Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the facings and front facings, to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve through the technical opening, press allowances. Close the opening. Topstitch along the bottom edge of the garment 2 cm from the edge.
14. Fold the right front placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, and along the upper and lower edges. Overcast the inner edge. Place the placket on the front (edge pointing away from the front edge) and topstitch along the marked line. Fold back the placket, covering the zipper, and topstitch along the attachment seam.
15. Make buttonholes on the right placket and tabs. Sew on buttons accordingly. Thread the cord through the drawstring casing, secure the cord stoppers.