Hooded Rain Jacket With Drawstring

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: rainwear fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: lining; fusible interfacing; separating zipper; 4 eyelets, decorative cord, 2 buttons, 4 cord stoppers and 4 cord ends.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment - 4.0 cm. Hem allowance for the sleeve - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 4 pieces
  • Underlap – 2 pieces
  • Casing – 1 piece
  • Central hood part – 1 piece
  • Side hood part – 2 pieces
  • Hood facing – 1 piece
  • Front placket – 1 piece
  • Tab – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag — 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Back lining – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Central hood part – 1 piece
  • Side hood part – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Front placket – 1 piece
  • Tab – 2 pieces
  • Hood facing – 1 piece

Also, duplicate the armhole areas on the back and front, pocket opening, bottom of the garment and sleeves.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the center back seam up to the slit mark. Press seams open. Attach the yoke to the back. Form a pleat and secure it with a stitch on the right side of the back yoke. Similarly, attach the yoke to the front.
3. Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Topstitch the underlap onto the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inwards. Topstitch the flap onto the underlap and pocket bag. Attach the flap to the front along the upper pocket marking line. Attach the small pocket bag to the front along the lower pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overcast the pocket bag edges. Direct the flap downwards.
4. Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press seams open. Press the seam allowances around the casing to the wrong side, place it on the garment according to the markings on the wrong side, and topstitch along the two long sides at 0.1 cm. Punch eyelets according to the markings.
5. Fold the tab piece lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long side and corner. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the edge. Place the tab on the upper sleeve and secure it along the elbow seam. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeve into the armhole.
6. Attach the central part to the hood. Press seam allowances towards the central part and topstitch 0.5 cm. Punch eyelets on the hood. Set the hood into the neckline.
7. Stitch the shoulder seam of the back neckline facing and front facing, press seams open. Stitch the hood lining seams, press seam allowances towards the central part. Attach the hood lining to the facing, press seam allowances towards the facing. Set the hood lining into the neckline of the facing and front facings.
8. Place the main garment and front facings right sides together, insert the zipper between the pieces, and stitch the edge of the front opening and the outer edge of the hood. Turn the front facings to the wrong side. Secure the hood attachment allowances together. Topstitch along the hood, according to the markings, forming a casing.
9. Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the sleeves. Attach the lining to the facing and front facings, to the bottom of the jacket, finishing the back slit. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening. Along the back slit, topstitch 0.2 cm to secure.
10. Topstitch the bottom of the garment and sleeve hems at 2 cm from the edge.
11. Fold the front placket lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Turn the placket right side out, press. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the short and outer sides. Place the placket on the front, according to the mark. The outer side is directed towards the side seam. Topstitch the placket to the front. Fold the placket towards the center front seam and topstitch with a 1 cm wide stitch.
12. Thread cords through the casings and eyelets. Attach cord stoppers and cord ends to the cords.
13. Sew buttons onto the sleeves, securing the tabs.