Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: jacket fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: lining; zipper; elastic tape; decorative cord; 4 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part — 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Back hem facing – 1 piece
- Front hem facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back lining – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar -1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour. Turn right side out, press. Place pocket and pocket lining right sides together and stitch the pocket opening and upper edge, inserting the flap. Turn back the lining and press. Stitch a securing line along the pocket opening on the flap, directing it downwards. Overlock the pocket along the lower and side edges. Topstitch the pocket, folding the seam allowances inwards.
- Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Press seams open. Stitch the center back seam. Press seams open.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Press seams open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Make buttonholes on the collar. Stitch the outer collar to the neckline. Clip and press seams open.
- Topstitch elastic tape to the wrong side, stretching it.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing. Press seams open. Stitch the inner collar stand to the neckline. Clip and press seams open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, inserting the zipper, simultaneously stitching the collar. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked hemline. Stitch along the upper edge of the collar, forming a casing.
- Stitch the cuff seam. Press seam open. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, stitch the dart, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lower facings.
- Fold the front placket in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, and along the upper and lower edges. Overlock the inner edge. Place the placket on the front piece and topstitch along the marked line. Turn back the placket, covering the zipper, and topstitch along the placket.
- Secure the seam allowances of the neckline and collar stand. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Attach the lower edge of the lining to the lower edge. Attach the lining to the inner side of the cuff. Secure the cuff seam allowances together. Turn right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening. Thread the cord. Topstitch along the bottom of the jacket.
- Fold the sleeve tab in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch along the long side and corner. Turn the tab right side out, straighten, press. Make a buttonhole on the tab. Sew the tab to the sleeve. Sew a button to the sleeve. Sew buttons to the flaps.
