Tailored Suiting Jacket with Belt

Name: Tailored Suiting Jacket with Belt
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4625
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4625

A women's lined hip-length jacket with a wide cut-on collar, princess seams and a half belt: a shaped belt stitched to the right front fastens through a buckle on a strap set into the left front princess seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Tailored Suiting Jacket with Belt

When To Wear

For the office with straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
In spring and autumn as a lined jacket over a blouse or fine knit.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams front and back and back darts.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Wide collar cut in one with the fronts, joined by a seam at the centre back and set into the back neckline together with the shoulder seams; the collar ends are pointed.

Closure: One button with a buttonhole on the left front.

Front: Centre and side front panels. A belt is topstitched to the right front and crosses the waist to a strap stitched into the left princess seam, which carries a rectangular buckle.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.

Finishing: Shoulder pads and sleeve heads; interfaced centre fronts, front facings and back neck facing; 3 cm hem allowances.

Lining: Full lining attached to the front facings, which form the inner layer of the collar; bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A cut-on collar with clipped corners at the shoulder seam, a belt and strap set into seams, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads, a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing)
1 button
1 buckle
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Front facing – 2 pieces
Belt – 1 piece
Strap – 1 piece

From lining fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

From fusible interlining:

Center front
Back neckline facing
Front facing

Attention: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Note: markings on patterns are made on the right side.

Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
Stitch darts on the back. Press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch panel seams on the back. Press allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press allowances open.
Fold the strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Trim allowances, turn right side out, and press.
Stitch panel seams on the front. Insert the strap into the left panel seam. Press allowances towards the center.
Clip the belt allowance at the longitudinal mark. Fold the protruding of the tail in half lengthwise and stitch the belt protrusion. Start and end the stitch strictly at the longitudinal mark. Turn the belt right side out. Fold the belt allowances inwards and topstitch the belt to the right front.
Stitch and press open the side seams of the jacket. Clip the allowance at the corner near the shoulder seam. Stitch the collar seam. Press allowance open. Stitch the shoulder seams, simultaneously setting the collar into the neckline.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch shoulder seams of facings and neckline facing, clipping allowances at corners. Stitch the collar seam. Set the collar into the neckline. Press allowances open. Attach lining to front facings and neckline facing.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge and bottom. Turn the belt towards the side seam. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure the allowances of the outer and inner collars together. Sew up the opening in the sleeve.
Make a buttonhole on the left front. Sew a button to the right front. Thread and secure the buckle into the strap.